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HOME FURNITURE 
MAKING 

For Amateur Wood Workers, 
Manual Training Schools and 
Students. : : : : : 



CONTAINING 



CLEAR DETAILED DRAWINGS AND PERSPEC- 
TIVE DRAWINGS OF ALL EXAMPLES 
PRESENTED. 



By 
G. A. RAETH 




CHICAGO 

Frederick J. Drake & Company 

PUBLISHERS 



A 






Copyright 1910 

BY 

Frederick J. Drake 



CCI.A278506 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Page 

late I — Four plate racks 21 

.^late II — ^Four magazine stands 31 

Plate III — Three tabourets 39 

Plate IV — Sewing table, cellarette and card table.. 49 

Plate V — Simple chair and corner chair 60 

Plate VI— Plant stands 70 

Plate VII — Hall trees and costumers 78 

Plate VIII — Four magazine stands 92 

Plate IX— Hall chests 101 

Plate X— Three stools Ill 

Plate XI — Three umbrella stands 121 

Plate XII— Two benches 130 

Plate XIII — Music rack and cabinet 141 

Plate XIV — Two mission chairs 150 

Plate XV— Two couches 158 

Plate XVI— Three smokers ' tables ..166 

Plate XVII— Three screens 174 

Plate XVIII— Two porch swings 180 

Plate XIX— Two Morris chairs , . . .187 

Plate XX— Two library tables 197 

Plate XXI— Two beds 205 

Plate XXII— Two davenports 213 

Plate XXIII— Two bookcases 221 

Plate XXIV— Two writing desks 228 

Plate XXV— China closet and buffet 235 

11 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Hints to Amateur Woodworkers 

How to "square" a board Article II 

How to use a two foot rule Article H 

How to use a saw Article II 

When not to place boards in a vise Article II 

How to obtain a golden oak finish Article III 

The use of a rip saw in place of a chisel . Article III 

When not to saw on the line Article III 

The parts of a plane Article III 

To avoid the splitting of corners Article III 

How some table tops are made Article IV 

What to do with plane when not in use . . . Article V 

The use of nails Article V 

When to sandpaper Article V 

How to use the plane Article VI 

When and how to use sandpaper Article VI 

When not to use the rasp Article VI 

How to bore holes Article VI 

What to use when sandpapering straight sur- 
faces Article VII 

How to use the chisel when sharp Article VII 

When not to depend upon sandpaper .... Article VII 
How to square a board (illustrated) . . . .Article IX 

To prevent splitting when chiseling Article X 

How to work on concave and convex cuts 

Article X 

How to drive nails Article X 

How to use the chisel on concave cuts. . . Article X 
The common planes used in bench work. .Article X 
13 



14 HINTS TO AMATEUR WOODWORKEBS 

27. List of articles for general hammered metal 

work Article XI 

28. The drawing of lines Article XI 

29. The simple cuts used in woodworking . . .Article XI 

30. Perspective drawing, freehand, mechanical 

Article XI 

31. How to select and sharpen a knife Article XII 

32. Gluing Article XIII 

33. The hammer, its parts and use Article XIV 

34. Upholstering and leather seats 

Articles V, X, XIV and XV 

35. Fifty-eight common joints. .. Articles XV and XVI 

36. Ledge, rebate or rabbet joint (illustrated) 

Article XVII 

37. Dado, gained or grooved joint (illustrated) 

Article XVn 

58. Cross lap joint (illustrated) Article XVEII 

39. Middle lap joint (illustrated) Article XVIII 

40. Through mortise and tenon joint (illus- 

trated) Article XIX 

41. Blind mortise and tenon joint illustrated) 

Article XIX 

43. Common mortise and tenon joint (illustrated) 

Article XX 

43. End, open, box or slip mortise and joint (il- 

lustrated) Article XX 

44. Plain miter joint (illustrated) Article XXI 

45. Plain or rubbed joint (illustrated) Article XXI 

46. How to apply a finish to oak Article XXI 

47. Spline joint (illustrated) Article XXII 

48. Pinned mortise and tenon joint (illustrated) 

Article XXn 

49. Pointers on various kinds of wood Article XXII 

50. How trees are classified Article XXIII 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 15 

51. Dovetail dado joint (illustrated) Article XXIII 

52. Housed mortise and tenon joint (illustrated) 

Article XXHI 

53. Keyed mortise and tenon joint (illustrated) 

Article XXIV 

54. Plain butt joint (illustrated) Article XXIV 

55. The grain of wood described Article XXIV 

56. Beveled splice (illustrated) Article XXV 

57. Simple splice (illustrated) Article XXV 

58. The difference between joints and splices . . . 

, Article XXV 



PREFACE 

The purpose of this book is manifold. To 
the manual training instructor the book will 
be of intrinsic value as a text in his class 
work; to the manual training student, it 
will readily suit its purpose in cabinet mak- 
ing or in creating new designs of furniture 
and to the manual training enthusiast of the 
home, this work will prove itself to be a 
valuable addition to other books of this 
nature. 

Simple household furniture has been 
chosen as the general theme and all the spe- 
cific drawings and articles conform with the 
present demand for lines of simplicity and 
impressiveness, securing utility and com- 
fort as well as artistic effects. The work- 
ing drawings are characteristic of the kind 
of furniture which the public has indorsed 
• 17 



18 PREFACE 

under the names of mission, puritan, arts 
and crafts and others. 

No furniture is presented which it will 
not be possible for any one familiar with 
the ordinary tools of carpentry to make. 
The same general form of construction is 
used in all, though there is a variety of 
forms in which the finished product ap- 
pears. 

As we all know, hand made furniture is 
one of the most desirable features of the 
home at the present time. Its artistic value 
makes it impossible for those of limited 
means, however, if it must be purchased 
from professional craftsmen. On the other 
hand, the simplicity of its lines, the chief 
characteristic of its beauty, makes it possi- 
ble for the handy amateur to reproduce the 
most costly pieces and it is for this amateur, 
principally, that this book on Home Furni- 
ture Making has been perfected. The les- 
sons for each group of drawings proceed by 
easy stages also, so that the amateur who 



PREFACE 19 

has succeeded with one or two will find it 
a simple matter to construct the more pre- 
tentious articles. 

The Author 



Home Furniture Making 

PLATE RACKS 

By G. A. Raeth 

AETICLE I 

The plate racks shown on this page are of 
simple construction. Their parts can be 
fastened by means of blued round head 
screws, finishing nails, dowels or pegs as 
shown in drawing No. 2. 

For the plate rack No. 1, the following 
pieces will be needed: 

Two sides— %x5%xl2y2 inches. 

One shelf- %x5%x22y2 inches. 

Two strips— y2x2%x23y2 inches. 

One dowel— %-inch round, 23 inches 
long. 

These pieces can be ordered mill planed 
21 



22 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 

on two surfaces to tlie thickness specified 
above and also sandpapered. Quarter 
sawed white oak, plain oak or ash make 
a satisfactory appearance and are compara- 
tively easy to obtain. Pine may also be 
used, but it is not as good as the above men- 
tioned woods as it is more liable to warp 
than the others. The quarter sawed oak ex- 
cels them all. 
Begin work on the sides first. 

1. Plane a joint or working edge on 
each. 

2. From the planed joint edge draw a 
line on each board % inch from one end 
with a try square and then plane down to 
line. 

3. From the planed end measure the 
length, twelve inches, on each board and 
draw a line through this point with the try 
square from the joint edge. Plane to line. 
If too much remains to be planed, saw part 
of it away. Do not saw on the line but near 
it. If the worker saws on the line, the board 



PLATE RACKS 23 

will be reduced to less than the required 
length, twelve inches. 

4. From the joint edge measure the 
width, 4% inches, and with a straight edge 
or large try square draw a line. Plane to 
line. 

If this line is followed hereafter in squar- 
ing a board, our worker will invariably ob- 
tain satisfactory results. 

The two sides have now been reduced to 
their correct lengths and widths. Always 
square up all pieces before attempting to 
lay out slants, angles or curves. Lay off 
and plane down slants on side pieces. Do 
not forget the openings for the back strips, 
% inch by 1% inches. 

The shelf may be made next. Reduce to 
length and width in the same manner as that 
of the side pieces, 22 inches by 4% inches. 
The width of the shelf and sides coincide. 

Let the back strips follow next; l%x23% 
inches. 

Before assembling the parts, locate the 



24 



HOME FUKNITURE MAKING 



center of holes for dowel. Use a i4-incK ] 
bit and bore a bole about 5-16 of an inch; ] 
deep on the inner side of both side pieces. 
Fasten the side pieces to shelf with round 
head blued screws, l^A inches in length. 




ev(\?l.«^\\ 



Plate No. 1 



Assemble back strips to side pieces witK 
flat head bright screws, 1 inch in length. 
In plate rack No. 2, the shelf is fastened 



PLATE RACKS 



25 



r fe 




¥ 



■+iV 




'i 



cga 





26 HOME FUENITURE MAKING 

to the sides by means of pegs or keys. Thei 
rack requires the following pieces: 

Two sides— %x6%xl6% inches. 

One shelf— %x5%x27 inches. 

One back— %x3%x23% inches. 

Two pegs— %x%x7 inches. i 

One dowel— % inch round by 23% inches. 

iWhen ordering lumber at the mill, allow 
,% inch for waste in length and width. 

Eeduce the sides to 16 inches long by 6 
inches wide. Lay out 8 inches from the top, 
the projection opening for the shelf: %x2 
inches. First bore holes with a 10-16 bit 
before chiseling. ^i 

Draw the two large curves on the twoj 
front comers with a 3-inch radius. Then 
draw the smaller one-inch curves. 

The shelf is 26% inches in length and 5 
inches in width when squared up. Lay out 
the ends as they are to project through the 
sides. The inside measurement of the 
length of the shelf and which touches 
against the inner side of both sides is 22 



PLATE BACKS > 27 

iches. The part of the shelf that passes 
irough the sides on both ends is 2%x2 
iches. 

The opening for the pegs should be made 
xt. Bore a hole before chiseling. Do not 
^rget the taper. Use a %-inch bit. 
Make the back board 22%x3 inches. Let 
le upper edge of the back be placed 1% 
ches from the top of the sides. Next make 
le grooves on the inner side of both side 
ieces for the ends of the back % inch 
|ide, % inch deep and 3 inches long. 
The holes for the %-inch dowel must also 
i bored 2 inches from the front edge, in 
le same manner as explained in No. 1. 
i The pegs are %x% inch at the top, 
^x% inch at the bottom and 3 inches in 
ngth. Always sandpaper and clean all 
^e parts before assembling. The back can 
3 fastened with glue, finishing nails or 
fads. 

Plate rack No. 3 is pleasing in form. Be- 
ides being adaptable for the shelving of 



28 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

plates, its lower portion is a practical pi( 
ture frame. Instead of a %-incli strip o 
tlie top shelf, three narrow grooves ar gei 
erally made for supporting plates. f 

Plate rack No. 3 requires the followin 
pieces : , 

One shelf- %x8y2x26y2 inches. i 

Two rails— %x3%xl5 inches. 

Two rails— %x2%x20% inches. 

Two brackets— %x6%x8% inches. 

One strip— %x%x26% inches. 

Make the shelf 26x8 inches. 

Make the two side rails %x3xl4% inchei 

The other rails are %x2%x20 inches. 

The ends are lapped. The joints use 
are end-lap. An end-lap joint is made i 
the same way as a cross-lap joint (meei 
ing at the center) except that the joint i 
at the end of both pieces. 

On the inner side and on the back 
groove is made, % inch wide and abor 
1/4 inch deep, to allow a plate of glass an 



PLATE RACKS 29 

picture to be held in place. A mirror 
uld be used in place of a picture. 
The brackets when squared up are 6x8 
ches. A 7-inch radius gives the curve, 
le brackets are fastened from the rear 
ith flat head bright screws. The top is 
stened in a like manner. 
Plate rack No. 4 is supplied with six 
)oks for cups. The top shelf can also be 
;ed as a shelf for a clock or vase, etc., 
hen the strip is removed. The sketch on 
ie left shows how a piece in keeping with 
le rest of the rack can be placed on either 
id to guard against the rolling off of plates, 
bracket can be made to support the shelf. 
The stock required for plate rack No. 4 
as follows: 

One shelf— %x4y2x30y2 inches. 
One board— %xllx26% inches. 
One strip— %x%x30y2 inches. 
The bracket can be made 3% inches wide 
nd 4 inches long by % inch thick. 
I The worker must not lose sight of the 



30 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 

fact that in order to do good work his too 
should be kept in excellent condition at 
in all cutting tools it is absolutely imperil 
tive that they be kept with a keen edg 
Use the try square continually. 



MAGAZINE STANDS 
AETICLE II 

In making magazine stand No. 1, begin 
on the sides first, square to correct length 
and width, as explained in article I. First 
plane a joint edge; second, plane one end; 
third, plane to length; fourth, plane to 
width. 

Do not remove the joint edges before the 
places for the shelves have been measured 
off and located. If the shelves are to be 
fastened with screws, a hole should be bored 
for each screw on the side pieces about 3-16 
inch D, or % inch D, according to the size 
of the screw. If Sat head screws are used, 
countersink the holes to allow the head of 
the screw to come down even with the sur- 
face of the side boards. Finishing nails or 
brads should be set and covered with putty 
and stained to match the wood. Fancy 
31 



32 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 




MAGAZINE STANDS 



33 



headed nails or buttons are often used to 
cover the heads of finishing nails. Scrape, 
sandpaper and clean thoroughly all wood- 






NO. 2 



TT 



r-s /<9" --{ "f-* m 



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— i— /a"- 



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1— 



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Plate No. 2 



^ork before assembling and staining or 
finishing. 

Magazine Stand No. 1 requires the fol- 
lowing pieces: 



34 HOME FUBKITURE MAKING 

Two sides— %x9%x33% inches. 

Four shelves— %x9%xl8% inches. 

After the sides have been squared up and 
the holes bored for the screws, the correct 
taper may be given to the board by marking 
off one inch from each corner on the top. 
The comers are then rounded 2 inch radius. 
The bottom designs of numbers 1 and 2 are 
alike. 

Use a 16-16 bit for the 1-inch holes. Saw 
near the lines and work the rest down to 
the lines with a 1-inch chisel. 

The four shelves are % inch in thickness 
and 18 inches in length. The width is made 
according to the taper of the sides. 

The method of fastening magazine stand 
No. 2 is different from any other shown on 
this page. The shelves are held in place by 
means of pegs or keys. 

Magazine stand No. 2 requires the follow- 
ing pieces: 

Two sides— %x9%x33% inches. 

Four shelves— %x9%x23 inches. 



MAGAZINE STANDS 35 

(Note— The inside measTirement for the 
length of the shelves is 18 inches as in No. 
1). 
Eight pegs— %x%x3% inches. 
The sides are %x9x33 inches. The whole 
length for the shelves is 22% inches. The 
width of each is 9 inches. 

The pegs are %x% inch at the top and 
%x% inch at the bottom. 

The projection of the shelf through the 
sides is 2i/4xl% inches. The curve at the 
top of the sides is 2 inches radius. 

For magazine stand No. 3 begin work on 
the sides first. Plane a joint edge on each 
and from this work the two ends as ex- 
plained above. The ends will be square 
to the joint edge, but beveled to the work- 
ing face. A bevel square will be needed for 
testing the beveled ends on top and bottom. 
To set the bevel it will be necessary to 
make a drawing full size of the front view 
and place the bevel on the drawing, adjust- 
ing the blade and beam to the angle wanted. 



36 HOME FURNITURE MAKING. 

When planing tlie side boards, first draw 
the center line before making the slant 
edges. Also draw lines for shelves. Lay 
off 12 inches on the bottom end. From the 
joint edges on the top end lay off 1 inch 
on either side, thus leaving 8 inches be- 
tween. 

As in No. 1, do not cut off the edges on 
the side pieces until lines have been meas- 
ured off and located for the shelves. 

The following pieces are required for 
Magazine Stand No. 3: 

Two sides— y8xl2%x34y2 inches. 
One shelf— %xl2xl6% inches. 
One shelf— %xllxl5 inches. 
One shelf— %xl0xl4 inches. 
One top— %xl0%xl8 inches. 

Magazine Stand No. 4 has a top, but 
omits the slant edges and beveled ends as 
shown in No. 3. This stand, on account of 
its simplicity and straight lines, is pleas- 
ing in appearance. 



MAGAZINE STANDS 37 

Magazine Stand No. 4 requires the fol- 
lowing pieces: 

Two sides— %x9%x34% inches. 

Three shelves— %x9%xl3 inches. 

One top— % or %xl2xl8% inches. 

The sides when squared up are: 9x34 
inches; the shelves 9x12% inches; the top 
12x18 inches. 

The magazine stands would look well if 
faced or covered with a thin leather of a 
color to harmonize with the wood. Orna- 
mental tacks are used to fasten the leather 
in place. Eoan skin or a thin leather can 
be used for facing the shelves. 

HINTS TO AMATEUR 
WOODWORKERS 

1. Have smooth edges and ends at all 
times. 

2. Observe the following system in re- 
ducing stock to its dimensions: First, se- 
lect the working face; second, make the 
working edge (square with the working 



38 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

face) ; third, make the working end (square 
with the working face and working edge) ; 
fourth, reduce to a length (square with the 
working face and working edge) ; fifth, re- 
duce to a width (square with the working 
face and the two ends) . In this case thick- 
ness is not considered. 

3. When measuring with a two-foot 
rule, tip it over on its edge to bring the 
lines of graduation down on the work. 

4. Saw with one hand. Use the full 
length of the saw and do not force nor 
jerk it. 

5. Do not place boards of large dimen- 
sions in vise when sawing. Do not place 
boards too high in yise Tvhen sawing or 
planing. 



TABOURETS 

AETICLE in 

The constructive designs of the tabourets, 
as shown on plate 3, are so plain in nature 
that the reader and worker will find little 
difficulty in constructing same. 

In richness of grain, quarter sawed white 
oak is the most satisfactory of all woods in 
furniture making. A mellow softness and 
luster can be given to the grain by carefully 
and properly applying harmonious stains 
and a wax finish. 

The manufacturers of stains, wax and fin- 
ishes, as a rule, give a detailed description 
of the correct application and use of each 
product, so that little trouble will be ex- 
perienced in obtaining pleasing results. 

Golden Oak Finish 

This is one of the most popular styles, 
and bids fair to become permanent. There 
. 39 



40 HOME FUKNITUKE MAKING 

is no universally accepted standard of color 
for it and it has quite a wide latitude as to 
shade, varying according to locality and 
individual taste. 

To obtain an egg shell gloss, proceed as 
follows; First, one coat of golden oak 
water stain; second, allow time to dry, then 
sandpaper lightly with fine sandpaper (this 
is done to bring out the high lights) ; third, 
apply a second coat of stain diluted about 
one-half with water, which will throw the 
grain into still higher relief, and so produce 
the effect of contrast that constitutes one 
of the features of golden oak. 

The sandpaper to be used, as spoken 
above, should be No. 00 and wound around 
a block of wood. For the fourth step follow 
the second coat of stain with a light coat of 
thin shellac, sandpaper lightly with fine 
sandpaper. Fifth, when the shellac has 
been sandpapered, a colored filler to match 
the stain is then applied to prevent discol- 
oration. Sixth, a coat of orange shellac is 



TABOURETS 



41 



follow the filler. Seventh, sandpaper 
Lghtly. Eighth, apply two or three coats 
f varnish. Ninth, rub first coats with hair- 







1^ 



ij 



rf 










^11 



^/6H 




loth or curled hair, and the last coat witlx 
)iilverized pumice stone and crude oil or 
aw linseed oil. 



42 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

If a dull finish is desired, specify that the 
last coat be rubbed with pulverized pumice 
stone and water instead of oil. 

Tabouret No. 1 is typical of the style of 
furniture construction bought upon the 
market at this age. The top is fastened to 
the four legs with dowels or round head 
blued screws; the braces by means of pegs 
or keys. 

Order the following pieces for tabouret 
No. 1: 

One top— %xl2xl2 inches. 

Four legs— %x4%xl9% inches. 

Two braces— %x3xl6% inches. 

Four pegs— %x%x3% inches. 

The diameter (D) for the circular top is 
11% inches. The top, however, would look 
better if made about 18 inches D. 

The total length for the braces is 16% 
inches. The width is 2% inches. The in- 
side measurement for the braces is 11% 
inches ; the part that projects through the j 
sides is 2% inches on each end and 1% { 



TABOURETS ' 43 

inches in width. The legs when squared up 
are %x4xl9 inches. 

Locate and square off the lines for the 
braces before tapering the joint edges. The 
legs are 3 inches at the top and rounded. 
Note carefully the other measurements on 
the side pieces. Each peg is % inch square 
at the top and %x% inch at the bottom, 3% 
inches in length. The tabouret, if made of 
bass or holly wood, can be designed and 
jfoumed with a pyrography needle. The 
same can be said of tabouret No. 3. 

To lovers of the furniture with straight 
lines and simplicity, tabouret No. 2 will be 
most welcome. The top is to be fastened 
to cleats which are first fastened to the up- 
per rails and flush with the underside of 
the top. 

Order the following pieces at the mill for 
tabouret No. 2: 

Four posts— l%xl%x20 inches. 

One top— %xl5xl5 inches 

Four rails— 1x3x12 inches, over all. 



44 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Four rails— Ix2%xl2 inches, over all. 
Twelve slats— %x2xll% inches over all. 

1. Make the posts to size first: l%xi 
l%xl9% inches. 

2. Eednce the top rails to size: lx2%x 
11% inches, over all; between tenons, 10 
inches. 

3. The lower rails are to be: 1x2x11% 
inches, over all; between tenons, 10 inches. 

4. The twelve slats measure: %xiy2xll 
inches, over all; between tenons, 9% 
inches. 

5. The top when completed measures: 
%xl4%xl4% inches. Do not omit the « 
notches on each comer of the top. 1 

The upper and lower rails, together with 
their slats, are to be assembled before fit- 
ting rails into their respective places on the 
corner posts. 

The joints used are the mortise and tenon. 

Eound the corners of the posts on their 
upper ends as shown in the drawings. 

The simplest in form is the tabouret 



TABOUKETS 45 

shown in drawing No. 3. In order to obtain 
the correct slants of its different parts, how- 
ever, it is necessary to make a f nil size draw- 
ing of the tabonret and transfer the angles 
obtained in this manner to the work with a 
bevel square. 

The brace, which is placed eight inches 
from the bottom, is made from a triangular 
piece of wood. A, B and C, as the drawing 
shows. 

To bisect the line B C with the compass, 
take a radius equal to a little more than % 
B C. With this strike off arcs from B and 
C; the point of intersection is *^a.'' A line 
drawn from A to *^a'' will divide line B C 
into two equal portions. The same method 
can be used in bisecting any other side oi 
line of the equilateral-triangle. 

To construct the hexagonal top first de- 
scribe a circle on the board with an eight- 
inch radius, thus giving a circle whose di- 
ameter (D) is 16 inches. 

To obtain the six sides, place the com- 



46 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

pass with its 8-iiich radius (R) on some 
point in the circumference of the circle. For 
example, point A as shown in the drawing. 

From the point A strike off arcs through 
the circumference at B and C. From either 
points, B and C, continue to strike off arcs 
on the circle until six have been made. The 
points when connected by straight lines 
form the hexagon. In the same manner 
the board brace beneath the top is obtained 
with a five-inch radius. 

Order the following pieces for tabouret 
No. 3: 

One top— %xl6y2xl6y2 inches. 

Four legs— %x6%xl9 inches. 

One board brace— %xlO%10% inches. 

One triangular board brace— %xl3xl3 
inches. 

1. Construct the hexagonal top as ex- 
plained above, %xl6xl6; 8 inches is the 
radius to be used. 

2. Square up the legs % inch thick, 6 
inches wide and 18 inches and a fraction of 



TABOURETS 47 

an inch long. The length depends upon the 
slant given to the legs. 

3. Construct a triangle % of an inch 
thick and 12% inches and a fraction of an 
in on all its sides. Here, too, the large di- 
mension depends upon the slant given to 
the legs. 

4. The brace beneath the top is to be 
% of an inch thick and constructed as ex- 
plained above with a 5-inch radius. 

5. The legs at the upper ends are 4 inches 
wide. 

6. The lower board brace is fitted onto 
the inner side of the legs with dowel pins. 
Round head blued screws can also be used 
in fastening the above pieces. 

Five Hints to Amateurs 

1. Do not split boards with a chisel. Use 
a rip saw. 

2. When reducing stock to dimensions 
and the work is to have a finished edge or 
end, do not saw on the line but near it and 



48 HOME FURNITUEE MAKING 

then work to line with a plane, or whatever 
tool that may be used. 

3. The parts of a plane are: The stock, 
the face, the toe, the heel, the knob, the 
handle, (opening) the month, (entrance) ! 
the throat, the plane iron, the cap, the 
clamp, the lever and the thumb screw. 

4. Learn the names and nses of ail theil 
simple tools of carpentry. 

5. To avoid the splitting of the corners j 
on the end of a board, cut away one comer 
and plane across from the other side; or, 
plane seven-eights across the whole end 
from both edges. 



SEWING TABLE, CELLARETTE 
AND CARD TABLE 

ARTICLE IV 

The sewing table on plate 4 is of tlie kind 
that can be undertaken by persons whose 
skill in handling the tools of carpentry is 
equivalent to that attained by high school 
boys. As shown in the drawing there are 
no drawers, but these might easily be added 
if thought desirable, i. e., a small draw on 
either end or a larger one on one side. 

Bird'seye maple is appropriate material 
to use for a table of this kind. The top may 
be made in three strips, each 8 inches wide 
and doweled. A cleat (a strip about 3 
inches wide) or two should be screwed un- 
derneath the table top to keep it from warp- 
ing. 

With the exception of some round tables, 
a number of manufacturers use nothing but 
** built up" ply tops. Each top is made up 
. 49 



50 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

of four or five thicknesses of wood with the 
grain of each layer running in a different 
direction. Around each edge of the top is 
a band of the kind of wood used about three 
inches wide, inserted between the layers. 
These tops will never warp and get out of 
shape. 

The parts of our sewing table are all fas- 
tened in place by means of ''doweled'' 
joints. For light structures as the above, 
the dowel joints will prove satisfactory for 
assembling parts. 

Whenever a joint is to be made, that from 
its nature cannot be satisfactorily held to- 
gether with patent fasteners or screws, the 
mortise and tenon joint should be used. The 
mortise and tenon joint referred to is the 
''blind" mortise and tenon, and is similar 
to the simple mortise and tenon. The sim- 
ple, "common'' or "stub" mortise and 
tenon is made by cutting only two sides of 
the tenon beam. (The tenon is the part 
that fits snugly within the mortise). It was 



SEWIITG TABLE, CELLABETTE, ETC. 51 




52 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 

formerly used for lower ends of studding 
or other pieces to prevent lateral motion. 
The ** blind" mortise and tenon joint does 
not extend through the mortised piece, and 
the cheeks of the tenon may be cut on two 
or four sides. 

Bear the above statements in mind for 
succeeding plates on tables. 

The parts required for the sewing table 
are: 

One top— %x24V2x34% inches. 

Two side rails— %x%x27 inches. 

Two end rails— %x%xl7 inches. 

Ten side posts— %x%x3 inches. 

Eight end posts— %x%x3 inches. 

Four legs— 2x2x28 inches. 

Eight braces— %x5x9% inches. 

Two side panels— %x3x27 inches. 

Two end panels— %x3x27 inches. 

For posts and rails use %-inch dowels. 

For the %-inch braces, i/4-inch dowels. 

The top when completed is % inch thick, 
24 inches wide and 34 inches lon^:. Make 



SEWING TABLE, CELLAKETTE, ETC. 53 

the long rails %x% inch square and 26% 
inches long. 

Make the side or end rails %x% inch 
square and 16% inches long. 

Note that the legs are 1% inches square 
to the under side of the rails from which 
place they taper down to %-inch square at 
the bottom. 

Each post is %x%x2% inches. They are 
fastened to the rails and underside of the 
table with dowels. 

The eight "braces when squared up and 
before making any curves, etc., are %x 
4%x9 inches. 

The two side panel pieces are %x2%x 
26% inches. The two end panels are %x 
2%xl6% inches. The panels are fastened 
on the inner side of the rails and posts. 

First make framework of posts and rails. 
Fasten legs to these. When the top is com- 
pleted, locate and bore the holes on the 
under side for the dowels on the upper end 
of the posts. The legs should be fastened 



54 HOME FUKNITURE MAKING 

to the under side of the top by means of 
iron angles. 

Instead of a lower rail, a top rail may also 
be added as shown in sketch * ^ a. " 

Some persons will find the making of the 
rails and posts a tedious task. For those 
workers the writer advises the making of 
solid rails as a substitute for the frame- 
work and its panel. 

No. 2, a cellarette, is coming into favor 
in a great many homes today. The model 
as shown on this plate is a simple construc- 
tion with its straight sides. Four sides 
serve as doors and the other four as legs. 
The edges of these pieces are at right an- 
gles or 90 degrees to the faces of the boards. 

The cellarette requires the following 
pieces : 

One top— %x24% inches D or wider, 
round. 

Four legs— %x5%x28% inches. 

Four doors— %x5i/2xl6% inches. 

Two braces— %x4xl2V2 inches. 



SEWING TABLE, CELLARETTE, ETC. 55 




56 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

One shelf- %xl2y2xl2y2 inches . 

One centerpiece— %xl2%xl6% inches. 

One pipe rack— %x2%xl2V2 inches. 

Make the cellarette of ash, plain or qnar- 
ter-sawed oak. 

The cirGular top is %x24 inches in di- 
ameter. 

The four legs are %x5x28 inches. 

The four doors are %x5xl6 inches. 

The braces, which are fastened beneath 
the top, are %x3%xl2 inches, and are in 
construction like those of the braces of 
tabouret No. 1 in plate 3. 

The lower board is octagonal in form, 
serves as a shelf and brace; when squared 
up is %xl2xl2 inches. 

The legs are fastened to the braces and 
the shelf with round head blued screws, 1%! 
inches in length. 

Besides catches to hold the doors in place 
as shown in the drawing, other devices can 
be purchased on the market. 



SEWING TABLE, CELLAKETTE, ETC. 57 

First— Screw the braces to the under side 
of the top. 

Second— Screw the legs to the shelf, 12 
inches from the bottom. 

Third— Make the center piece. 

Fourth— Nail piece for pipes, %x2xl2 
inches to centerpiece about 5 inches from 
the top. 

Fifth— Fasten centerpiece with pipe 
ack inside of legs and touching on the up- 
3er side of the shelf. 

Sixth— Screw framework of legs, shelf 
and centerpiece to the four ends of the 
Draces. 

Seventh— Fasten hinges on lower ends of 
t)ieces for doors. 

Eighth— Screw catches in place. 

Ninth— Screw the hinged ends of the door 
bieces to the underside of shelf in their re- 
spective places. Small chains may be pro- 
vided to support the doors when opened. 

The next article No. 3 is serviceable as 
I card or center table. The top of the table 



58 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

may be faced with leather. Table No. 3 re- 
quires the following pieces: 

One top— %x26% inches D, round. 

Four legs— l%xl%x27% inches. 

Two braces (lower)— %x2%xl9i/2 inches. 

Two braces (upper) — %x3xl9% inches. 

One shelf— %xl6 inches D, round. 

When finished the top is %x26 inches D, 
or larger round. The legs are 1%-inch 
square by 27 inches. The lower Hb races are 
%x2xl9 inches. The upper braces are %x 
2%xl9 inches. The shelf is %xl5i/^ inches 
D, round. 

The joints to be used in fastening the 
braces to the legs are the blind mortise and 
tenon joints. 

Note— The method of fastening with 
pegs, as used in preceding articles is some- 
times called a keyed mortise and tenon. 
It is one in which the tenon protrudes 
through the mortise far enough to receive 
a removable key or peg and thus be drawn 
up tight to the mortised piece. It is often 



SEWING TABLE, CELLARETTE, ETC. 59 

used by furniture manufacturers in knock- 
down bookcases, tables, etc. 

Note— The perspective of tbe sewing 
table shows the top with square edges and 
ends. There is an upper and lower rail. 
There are no braces on the ends and the 
same are different in form than those shown 
in the working drawing. As a whole, the 
sketch gives a definite view as to how the 
sewing table will appear when completed. 



CHAIRS 
M^TICLE V 

The chairs shown on ]3late 5 are of simple 
constmction. The parts of the first chair 
are practically all fastened in place by 
means of round head blued screws, and 
those of the second by plain mortise and 
tenon joints. 

The nse of glue is not necessary with 
chair No. 1. The back is made of one solid 
piece; and similarly, the two side legs in- 
stead of four as used in the ordinary 
framed up construction. As a whole, the 
first chair has been sufficiently simplified to 
suit amateur ability. 

Chair No. 1 requires the following: 

One seat— %xl8%xl8V2 inches. 

One back— %xl8y2x26 inches. 

Two rails— y8x8V2xl7 inches. 

Two legs— % or ygxlT^ inches (height) 
by 18% inches (width). 
60 



CHAIRS 61 

Three cleats— %x%xl8 inches. 

As explained in Article 2, a bevel square 

should be used in obtaining the beveled 

edges and ends. It is necessary to make a 

full drawing in order to transfer the cor- 

I rect angles to all parts. 

Proceed in the following manner in mak- 
ing chair No. 1 : 

1. Square up the tow legs, % or %xl7 
inches (length) by 18 inches (width). 

2. Bevel the ends to angle desired. 

3. Make bottom design on legs. 

4. Slant the joint edges. Eemove an 
inch from either side at the top end, leav- 
ing sixteen inches for the width at the top. 

5. Round the lower comers, one inch 
radius. 

6. Make rear space on legs for back 
piece according to slant, thickness, seven- 
eighths of an inch, and depth four inches. 

7. Square up front and back rails, %x8 
inches. The length must fit in accordance 
with the inclination of the legs. Take the 



62 



HOME FUKNITUEE MAKING 




CHAIRS 



63 




64 HOME FUKXITURE MAKING 

same from the full size drawing. Only the 
front rail has a design as shown in the 
drawing. 

8. Square up the seat %xl8 inches 
( width )xl7 inches (length). 

9. Give to it the correct slant on end. 

10. Eemove the joint edges. The width 
at the rear end is 16 inches. 

11. Round the front comers of seat, one- 
inch radius. 

12. Square up the back %xl8x25y2 
inches. 

13. Draw a center line. 

14. Make inner design on back. 

15. Bevel lower end. 

16. Taper the edges downward. 

17. Give curves to upper end of back. 

18. Fasten legs to rails and plane latter 
flush on upper edges. 

19. Make three cleats seven-eighths of 
an inch square and screw to inner sides of 
legs and front rail, flush to the under side 
of seat. 



CHAIRS 65 

20. Screw seat to cleats. 

21. Screw back to seat and back rail. 
Note— The back of the chair may be in- 
clined two inches. 

Clean thoroughly before assembling-. 

The chair if made of holly or bass wood 
can be pyrographed. 

A chair assuring comfort is that shown 
in drawing No. 2. The proportions of the 
comer chair are comfortable and make rest 
inviting. Its massive effect and straight 
lines lend to it an air of distinction and 
dignity. 

The comer chair requires the follow- 
ing pieces : 

Four legs— 21/4x21/4x321/2 inches. 

One front rail— %x5x27 inches. 

One lower back rail— %x5x27 inches. 

Two lower side rails— 78x5x19 inches. 

One upper back rail— %x4%x27 inches. 

Two upper side rails— %x4i/2xl9 inches. 

Three slats for back— %x4xl5i/2 inches. 

Two slats for back— i/2x2%xi5i/2 inches. 



66 HOME FUKNITURE MAKING 

Two slats for sides— %x4xl5% inches. 
Four slats for sides— %x3%xl5% inches* 

1. The legs when squared up, are 2l^] 
2%x32 inches rounded at the top. 

2. Make the front and the two back rails 
twenty-six and one-half inches in length 
over all. The measurement inside the ten- 
ons is twenty-five inches; the thickness is 
% of an inch. The width for the front and 
lower back rails is four and one-half inches 
when completed. 

3. Make all the rails eighteen and one- 
half inches in length, over all. The thick- 
ness for all is seven-eighths of an inch. The 
width for the two lower side rails is four 
and one-half inches. The width of the two 
upper side rails is four inches. The meas- 
urement inside of the tenons on the side 
rails is seventeen inches. 

4. The width of the upper back rail is 
four inches. 

5. Three slats on the back are %x3i/^x 
15 inches over all. The length inside of 



CHAIRS 67 

the tenons is thirteen and one-haK inches. 

6. The other two slats on the back are 
1/2x2x15 inches. 

Note— The inside length is the same on 
all slats ; thirteen and one-half inches. 

7. The one slat on either side is %x 
3%xl5 inches over all. 

8. The two outside slats on either side 
are %x3xl5 inches over all. 

9. The curves on all the slats are made 
three inches from the end and one inch 
radius. 

10. The lower rails are to be placed nine 
and one-half inches from the floor. The 
upper rails are placed one-half inch from 
the top of the legs. 

11. The parts are glued in place. Use 
clamps to hold the parts until the glue is 
dry. Clean thoroughly. 

12. Stain and wax. 

The cushion for the comer chair can be 
made separately and fitted within the 
framework of the lower rails. 



68 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

In case you have forgotten how to square 
up a board return to Articles 1 and 2. 

Five Hints to Amateurs 

1. Planes should be placed upon the 
bench so as not to dull the plane iron. Tip 
plane over on its side after using. 

2. Do not test the work from an un- 
planed or uneven face or end. Follow steps 
in planing a board as outlined in Articles 
1 and 2. 

3. Do not use too many nails on the 
work. This will split the board and does 
not add to its appearance. 

4. (a) Neither should nails on a small 
piece of wood be placed in one straight line 
for the same reason as stated above. 

(b) Whenever possible use brads instead 
of nails. 

5. Sandpapering should not be done un- 
til all tool processes have been completed. 
The little grains of sand left in fibers of the 



CHAIKS 69 

wood will dull the cutting edges of the tools 
used. 

^^Man is a tool using animal. He can use 
tools, can devise tools; with these, granite 
mountains melt into light dust before him; 
he kneads iron as if it were soft paste ; seas 
are his smooth highways, winds and fire his 
unwearying steeds. Nowhere do you find 
him without tools; without tools he is noth- 
ing, with tools he is all.''— Carlyle. 



PLANT STANDS 

ARTICLE VI 

Plate 6 shows working drawings of three 
plant stands, solidly built and based on good 
lines. The materials best adapted for most 
of the articles, as shown on* this page, are 
oak, ash, chestnut and white pine. 

Plant stand No. 1 needs the following 
pieces: 

Four legs— l%xl%x30% inches. 

Four rails— %x3%xl6% inches. 

Two shelves— %xl6%xl6% inches. 

Six slats— %x3x20% inches. 

Proceed in the following manner to con- 
struct the above plant stand: 

1. Square up the four legs, l%xl%x30 
inches. 

2. Make mortises on legs for rails, 1 
inch from the top, 1% inches long, % or V2 
inch wide and % of an inch deep or more. 

3. Make the lower mortises on the legs, 

70 



PLANT STANDS 71 

5^/4 inches from the bottom, 2% inches long, 
% of an inch deep and % of an inch wide. 

4. Make the four rails each %x3xl6i/2 
inches (over all). 

5. Make the tenons on the rails to fit 
the mortises in the legs. The measurement 
inside the tenons on the rails is 15 inches. 

6. Make the slants on the upper two 
rails. 

7. Make the six slats each %x2%xl9% 
inches (over all). 

8. Make mortises on the rails to receive 
the slats : % inch wide, % inch or more deep 
and 2 inches long. 

9. Make the tenons on the slats to fit in 
mortises on rails. The measurement inside 
the tenons on the slats is 19 inches, thus 
leaving % of an inch on either end for the 
tenons. 

10. Glue slats in rails and clamp until 
dry. 

11. Glue legs onto rails and clamp until 
dry. 



72 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 




PLANT STANDS 



73 





4^ 



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t. 



111 



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.OP- 



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74 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

12. Make the upper and lower shelves: 
%xl6xl6 inches. 

13. Adjust the comers of shelves to fit 
at legs and rails. See drawing and sketch. 

14. Fasten shelves in place by means of 
dowel pins or round blued or brass screws. 
Stand No. 1 will also serve well as a ta- 
bouret. 

The only difficulty in constructing plant 
stand No. 2 will be met in making the bev- 
eled ends. In order to obtain a definite 
angle on each, make a full size drawing and 
place the bevel square on the same. The 
set angle is then transferred to the wood- 
work. 

The following pieces are required for 
plant stand No. 2: 

Four legs— %x4V2x32% inches. 

One top— %xl3xl3 inches. 

One shelf— 3/4x12x12 inches. 

Two braces— %x4x6% inches. 

Proceed as follows in making the above 
stand No. 2: 



PLANT STANDS 75 

1. Square up the four legs: %x4x32 
inches. 

2. Draw a center line on each. 

3. Bevel the ends as explained above 
from drawing. 

4. Make the designs on joint edges. 
(For the inch holes use a 16-16 bit. Bore 
on one side until the spur of the bit comes 
through. Turn the board about and finish 
boring from the inner side, or bore on other 
side) . 

5. Square the top: %xl2y2xl2% inches. 

6. Square up the braces: %x3%x6 
inches. 

7. Make the beveled ends. 

8. Make cross lap joints on braces. 

9. Figure out width and length of shelf. 
Both length and width should be the same. 
Locate place for shelf. 

10. Assemble all parts with screws. 
Clean all parts thoroughly before fastening. 
Stand No. 2 can be used equally as well as 
a pedestal. 



76 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 

An article simple in construction is shown 
in fignre 3. There is no jointing to do and 
with the exception of the shelf, all the parts 
require straight planing only. 

A third shelf can be placed between the 
top and lower, if thought desirable. 

Plant stand No. 3 requires the following 
pieces: 

Eight legs— %x3x32y2 inches. 

Two shelves— %xl4%xl4% inches. 

When squared up the legs are %x2%x32 
inches; the shelves %xl4xl4 inches. 

Do not neglect to make the one inch 
points on the legs and the compass curves 
on the lower shelf of 9% radius. 

The upper shelf is placed two inches from 
the top of the legs and the lower shelf is 
fastened 10 inches from the bottom ends of 
the legs. 

Five Hints to Amateurs 
1. Hold the plane firm on the work and 
slide it over the whole length with long and 



PLANT STANDS 77 

even strokes. Stand firm on both feet, with 
the left foot extended ahead of the right. 

2. Sandpaper should not be used across 
the grain, especially immediately before 
finishing. 

3. Whenever the work is to have a fin- 
ished edge or end, another tool should be 
used instead of a file or rasp. 

4. (a) When boring the work should 
be placed in the vise and not upon the floor. 

4. (b) Bore holes until the spur of the 
bit shows; withdraw the bit and bore the 
rest from the other side; or turn the work 
about and bore from the inside. 

5. When working do not sit down. 

** Prodding is a weariness to prodder and 
prodee. The man of initiative needs no 
prod.'' 



HALL TREES OR COSTUMERS 

AETICLE VII 

How often has mamma told Johnny not to 
throw his coat and cap upon the chair when 
he enters the house ? Now, mothers who are 
troubled in this way should induce the fond 
fathers to construct one of the hall trees as 
shown in plate 7. These are not only good 
for the boys to hang their wraps on but also 
for the rest of the family. 

The first hall tree requires the following 
pieces : 

One center pole— l%xl%x66>4 inches. 

Two cross pieces— 2%x2%xl5>4 inches. 

Four brackets— IxGxlOK inches. 

Note: If a measurement for a board can 
be had at the mill as the drawing may call 
for, the mill order will specify the same ac- 
cordingly; i. e., the pole can be received at 
the mill planed on four sides, one and one- 
half inches square. If not mill planed, al- 
78 



HALL TREES OR COSTUMERS 79 

ways allow about one-half inch on length 
and thickness for waste. 

1. The pole when finished is one and one- 
half inches square, by sixty-six inches in 
length. 

2. The cross lap pieces, that serve as 
rests, when finished are two inches thick, 
two inches wide and fifteen inches in length. 

3. Make a cross lap joint at their cen- 
ters : two inches wide and one inch deep. 

4. Make the one inch chamfers on the 
ends of cross pieces. 

5. The fonr brackets when finished are 
1 inch thick, 5% inches wide and 10 inches 
in length. First, square up the boards be- 
fore attempting the curves. 

6. Locate and bore the holes for the 
dowels on pole and brackets. 

7. The brackets can also be fastened to 
the rests by means of dowels. 

8. A dowel pin can be placed in the 
lower end of the pole and slipped through a 



80 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

hole, the size of the diameter of dowel, in 
the center of both cross pieces. 

For costumer No. 2 order the following 
pieces from the mill: 

Two vertical poles— Ix2%x66% inches. 

One top rail— %x3y2xl7 inches. 

One second rail— %x2xl7 inches. 

One third rail— %x2xl7 inches. 

One board— Ix8y2xl7 inches. 

Four brackets, each— 1x8x10% inches. 

Two rests (a)— 2x2%xl8y2 inches. 

Three slats— %x3y2x43 inches. 

The brackets in design are like those 
shown in figure No. 1. 

1. Make the long vertical poles 1x2x66 
inches. 

2. Make the top slants on upper ends. 

3. Square up the top rail : % in. thick x 
3 inches wide, 16% inches long over all. 

4. On the ends make the tenons: % 
inches or longer, % inches thick and about 
two inches wide. 

5. Square up the second rail: % inch 



HALL TREES OR COSTUMERS 81 

thick, 1% inches wide, and 16% inches long 
over all. 

6. On the ends make the tenons % inch 
or longer, % inch thick and about % inch 
wide. 

7. Square up the third rail: % inch 
thick, 1% inches wide, and 16% inches over 
all in length. 

8. Make the tenons on the ends : % inch 
long, % inch thick and about % inch 
wide. 

9. Make the mortises on the inside of 
the poles to receive the tenons on the three 
rails respectively. 

10. Square up the three slats: % inch 
thick, 3 inches wide, and 42% inches long 
over all. 

11. Make tenons on both ends: % inch 
long, % inch thick, and about two inches 
wide. 

12. Remove the joint edges in accord- 
ance with the design on the slats. 

13. Make the mortises on the second 



82 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 



and third rails to receive the tenons on th< 
three slats respectively. 





€ ^S^^:^^' £ ■ .dJ ^z^z^^^.St^- ^ "^^ 



14. Glue and fasten second and third 

rails onto slats. 

15. Square np the two side pieces or 



HALL TKEES OR COSTUMERS 



83 




1?tt 



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-K -.^'- 



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J^. 



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84 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 






rests: 2 inclies thick, 2 inclies wide, 18 
inches long. 

16. Make a %-inch groove on the under 
side of each. 

17. Square np lower board: 1 inch thick, 
8 inches wide by 16% inches long over all. 

18. Make the tenons on board: % inch 
long, % inch thick, and about 5 or 6 inches 
wide. 

19. Make mortises on lower side pieces 
to admit the tenons of lower board. 

20. Glue and fasten the two side pieces 
onto lower board. 

21. All rails, together with the slats, 
can now be fastened onto the poles. 

22. Make the bracket: 1 inch thick, 7^/2 
inches wide, and 10 inches long. 

23. When the brackets have been com- 
pleted, fasten same onto the poles and rests 
as explained in connection with hall tree 
No. 1. 

Costumer No. 3 has a mirror which can 
be turned to any position desired. At the 



HALL TEEES OR COSTUMERS 85 

lower end there is a box with a lid which 
serves as a seat. Within the box may be 
. placed rubbers, overshoes and the like. A 
leather cushion may be placed upon the 
seat to make it more comfortable. 

Hall tree No. 3 requires the following 
pieces. 

Two long poles— l%xl%x67i/2 inches. 

Two front vertical posts— l%xl%x23 
inches. 

One top rail— %x3x20 inches. 

One second rail— %x4x20 inches. 

One third rail— %x4x20 inches. 

One fourth rail— %x4y2x20 inches. 

One front upper rail for framework seat 
— %x4x20 inches. 

One front lower rail— %x4x20 inches. 

One back upper rail— %x4x20 inches. 

One back lower rail— %x4x20 inches. 

One vertical front rail (left side)— %x 
4x9 inches. 

One vertical front rail (right side)— % 
x4x9 inches. 



86 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

One front panel— %x9xl3 inches. 

One back panel— %x9x20 inches. 

Two side upper rails— %x4xl8 inches. 

Two side lower rails— %x4xl8 inches. 

Four vertical side rails (right and lefl 
sides)- %x4x9 inches. 

Two side panels (right and left sides) 
%x9xll inches. 

One bottom— %xl8x20 inches. 

One seat— %x20 (wide)x20 inches long. 

Make the width from two boards. 

Two arms— %x3%x21 inches. 

Two cleats— %x%xl8 inches. 

Two horizontal rails (for frame of mir- 
ror)— %xl%xl7% inches. 

Two vertical rails (for mirror)— %xl% 
xl3% inches. 

Follow carefully each step in construct- 
ing hall tree No. 3. 

1. Square up long poles: l%xl%x67 
inches. 

2. Make bevel on upper end. 

3. Square up upper rail first: %x2%x 



HALL TREES OR COSTUMERS S7 

19% inches over all. Make tenons % inch 
long and % inch thick on all rails, % inch 
in thickness. 

4. Square up second rail: %x3%xl9% 
inches over all. 

5. Square up third rail: %x3%xl9% 
inches over all. 

6. Square up fourth rail: %x4xl9% 
inches over all. 

7. Square up upper back rail (below 
seat) : %x3%xl9% inches over all. 

8. Square up lower back rail: %x3%x 
19% inches over all. 

9. Make mortises on long vertical poles 
(inside) to admit all the above rails. 

10. Square up front vertical posts: 1^/2 
xl%x22% inches over all. 

11. Square up upper front horizontal 
rail (below seat) : %x3%xl9% inches over 
all. 

12. Square up lower front horizontal 
rail: %x3V2xl9% inches over all. Make 
tenons on rails. 



I 



88 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

13. Make mortises on front posts for up- 
per and lower front rails. 

14. Square up two front vertical rails: 
%x3%x8% inches over all. Make tenons. 

15. Make mortises on upper and lower 
front horizontal rails for the above two 
vertical rails. 

16. Glue and clamp the above rails 
(four) together. 

17. Make inside groove for front panel. 

18. Square up front panel: I4x8%xl2% 
inches and fasten in place. 

19. Square up the two upper side rails: 
%x3%xl7% inches over all. 

20. Square up the two lower side rails: 
%x3%xl7% inches over all. 

21. Make tenons on the above rails and 
mortises for same on long poles and from 
vertical posts. 

22. Square up the four side vertical ] 
rails: %x3%x8% inches over all. 

23. Make all tenons on the above ver 



HALL TREES OR COSTUMEES 89 

tical rails and mortises for same on upper 
and lower side rails. 

24. Make the grooves for the panels. 

25. Square up the panel boards: i/4x 
8%xl0% inches. 

26. Glue all rails and clamp in place 
until dry. 

27. Square up the seat: %xl9%xl9 
inches. 

28. Square up two cleats: %x%xl7% 
inches, to fit immediately below the seat 
and on the inside of the two upper side 
rails. 

29. Square up the two arms, each %x 
3x21% inches. The arms are three inches 
wide at the front end and two inches wide 
at the rear end. 

30. Make small squares on arms to fit 
over front posts. Make rear opening on 
arms to fit on long poles. See sketch **b.'' 

31. Square up upper and lower rails for 
frame of mirror: %xlxl7% inches over all. 
Make tenons. 



90 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

32. Square up the vertical rails: %xlx 
13 inches. Make mortises. 

33. Make grooves for mirror and glue 
frame together. 

34. Sandpaper and clean all parts be- 
fore finishing. 

35. Screw mirror in place. Perspective 
No. 3 shows the panel pieces placed inside. 

In almost every case, the joints used in 
fastening the various parts of the three 
hall trees are some variation of the mor- 
tise and tenon joint. 

The tenons used on the horizontal rails 
of the frame for the mirror, are the common 
or stub mortise and tenon and are made by 
cutting only two sides of tenon beam. 

The horizontal side rails A and B below 
seat in figure No. 3 are made with tenons 
like those on an end lap joint. The end lap 
fits into the posts. See sketches '*a*' and 

Note how the rear of the arm pieces are 



HAIiL TEEES OK COSTUMERS 91 

cut to fit the long poles in detail drawing 

The panels fit within a groove. 
The cleats are screwed in place. 
Five Hints to Amateurs 

1. In sandpapering straight surfaces, a 
block of wood should be used upon the sand- 
paper. 

2. In striking a chisel a mallet should 
be used. If the chisel is kept keen, there 
will be no necessity for the use of a mallet 
for small cuts. 

3. Give your work a final treatment 
from a critical standpoint before sandpa- 
pering or assembling. 

4. Do not depend upon sandpaper doing 
the work. Use it for cleaning only and 
smoothing surfaces after all tool processes 
have been completed. 

5. Do not trace any work. 

A bad man quarrels with his tools. 



MAGAZINE STANDS 

ABTICLE VIII 

As magazine stands are always received 
with much interest, the author takes pleas- 
ure in introducing four more similar draw- 
ings into the course. 

Simplicity marks the construction of the 
cabinets as shown on plate 8. The joints 
used for stands No. 1 and No. 2, are the 
plain butt joints. In a plain butt joint, 
the pieces join endwise or edgewise with- 
out overlapping. Such an application of 
joints is commonly noticeable on ordinary 
boxes or cases, as seen at the grocery or 
dry goods stores. 

Order the following pieces at the mill for 
No. 1: 

Two sides— %xlO%x34V2 inches. 

Four shelves— %xl0%xl6% inches. 

Four strips— %x2%xl8i/4 inches. 

1. Make the sides first. When planed 
92 



MAGAZINE STANDS 93 

and squared up, they are yg inch thick, 9% 
inches wide and 34 inches long. 

2. Locate and draw lines across the 
faces for the shelves. 

3. On above lines mark off places for 
screws. Bore holes on said pieces with a 
gimlet 3-16 or % hit. The size of the holes 
depends upon the thickness of the screws 
used. 

4. On side pieces make upper and lower 
designs as shown in drawing. 

5. Plane and square up the shelves % 
inch thick, 9% inches wide and 16 inches 
long. 

6. Make the four strips % inch thick, 
1% inches wide and 17% inches long. 

7. Screw shelves in place with round 
beaded blued screws. 

8. Nail strips in place on the rear. 

Magazine stand No. 2 is similar in con- 
struction to No. 1 with the exception of 
the shelves, which are 19 inches in lensfth 



94 HOME FUENITURE MAKING 

and the solid back in place of tke four 
strips. 

Magazine stand No. 3 requires the follow- 
ing pieces: 

Six pieces— %x2%x32% inches. 

Four shelves— %x8%x21% inches. 

Note carefully how to construct the ver- 
tical pieces. Instead of ordering six pieces 
for the sides as given above, two boards 
can be purchased, % inch thick, 32% inches 
long, 9% inches wide and planed up in the 
following manner: 

1. Plane joint or working edge; 2. 
Plane one end square with the joint edge; 
3. Plane board to length (32 inches) and 
square to joint edge; 4. From joint edge 
mark off 2 inches (the width of one side 
piece) and draw line with a ** straight 
edge;'^ 5. From latter mark off % inch 
and draw line (the % inch space just made 
is for sawing) ; 6. From the second line 
thus far constructed, mark off 2 inches for 
the second side piece and draw line; 7. 



MAGAZINE STANDS 95 

Draw another i4-inch space for sawing; 8. 
Mark off the last strip and draw line; 9. 
Plane all side pieces down to line. 

If the above method is followed, it is a 
simple matter to turn out each strip of the 
same length. 

The shelves when finished are to be % 
inch thick, 8 inches wide and 20% inches 
long. Note how the side strips are fitted 
onto the shelves. 

For each strip use two round headed 
blued screws on every shelf. The spacing 
of the shelves might be reversed to suit 
the fancy of the worker. 

A stand that differs considerably in de- 
sign and makeup, is the one shown in draw- 
ing No. 4. The joints used on the rails are 
mortise and tenon. 

Order the following pieces for the last 
cabinet : 

Four corner posts— lV8xl%x40i/2 inches. 

One top-%xl8x26% inches. 



96 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 




MAGAZINE STANDS 



97 



Two upper front rails— %x2%x21% 
inches. 



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Two lower front rails— %x2i/4x21%' 
inches. 



98 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Two upper side rails— %x2%xl4 inches. 

Two lower side rails— %x2%xl4 inches. 

Two bottom side rails— %x2xl4 inches. 

Three shelves— %xl3%x21 inches. 

Two side panels— %xl4x30 inches. 

The width and length of the shelves de- 
pend upon the methods used in fastening. 
The total width of the panel pieces must 
be made from two pieces. 

The top shelf can be fastened by means 
of cleats or angles. The top when planed 
to size is %xl7%x26% inches. 

The corner posts are 1% inches square 
by 40 inches long. The upper front rails 
are alike on both sides, %x2x21 inches long. 
The length of all rails depends upon the 
length of the tenons used. The measure- 
ment between the tenons for the above rails 
is 20 inches. 

The upper side rails are %x2xl4 inches. 
The measurement for the length between 
the tenons is 13 inches. 

The lower side rails are %xl%xl4 inches. 



MAGAZINE STANDS 99 

The length between the tenons is 13 
inches. 

The bottom rails are %xl%xl4 inches. 
The length between the tenons is 13 inches. 

The panel pieces are %xl33/4x29i/2 
inches. 

Do not omit the grooves (% inch deep) 
on the inner sides of the comer posts and 
rails to admit the panel pieces. A matched 
or tongue and groove joint may be used for 
the above, especially onto the rails. Such 
a joint is made by making a projection or 
* ^tongue'' in the center of the joint or other 
edge of one board and a corresponding 
groove in the center of the other, so that 
they will match together. For example, 
see flooring or some plain boxes. 

Sketches a and a* show a simpler man- 
ner of fastening the panel onto the comer 
verticals. 

Sketches b and c show How the shelves 
can be held in place by means of blocks or 



100 HOME FUKNITUEE MAKING 

cleats. Sketch b shows a square cleat and 
c one triangular in shape. 

Detail sketches d and d^ show another 
method of holding a shelf in place. The 
same is fitted into a notch made on the cor- 
ner posts. The end of the shelf rests snug- 
ly against the panel. 

The shelves can also be fastened with 
screws as shown on the foregoing three 
stands. 

Magazine stands are sometimes recog- 
nized by the public by the names of maga- 
zine cabinets, book shelves or cases and 
library book shelves. 

*^The hand holds the place of honor at 
the side of the power of speech in raising 
man above the beasts!'' 



HALL CHESTS 

ARTICLE IX 

Specimens of furniture that will no doubt 
be warmly welcomed, are the hall chests 
shown on this page. Their practical value 
for storing away odds and ends excels that 
of any other article to be found in furni- 
ture. 

To many, the first chest is known as a 
shirt waist box or skirt box and serves a 
purpose as its name signifies. Its length 
assures a comfortable storing place for 
skirts, petticoats, wearing apparel and 
remnants of dress goods and the like. 

In hall chest No. 2, may be placed mack- 
intoshes, rubbers, overshoes and the like. 

Chest No. 1 may appropriately be used 
as a window seat. The seat of both chests, 
if upholstered with leather, will improve 
the appearance and give comfort to each 
piece. 

101 



102 



HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 




HALL CHESTS 



103 



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104 HOME FUKNITUEE MAKING 

Order the following pieces of lumber for 
chest No. 1: 

Two horizontal front rails (upper and 
lower)— %x3x50 inches. 

Two horizontal back rails (upper and 
lower)— %x3x50 inches. 

Two front vertical rails— %x3xl2 inches. 

Two back vertical rails— %x3xl2 inches. 

One front vertical rail— %x3%xl2 
inches. 

One back vertical rail— %x3%xl2 inches. 

Two front panels— %xl2x21 inches. 

Two back panels— %xl2x21 inches. 

Four comer posts— l%xl%xl6% inches. 

One bottom— %xl5%x49 inches. 

Four end horizontal rails (two on each 
end)— %x3xl5% inches. 

Four end vertical rails (two on each end) 
— %x3%xl2 inches. 

Two end panels (one on each end)— %x 
10x12 inches. 

Two long rails for top— %x4%x53V2 
inches. 



HALL CHESTS 105 

Five short rails for top~%x4%xl2 
inches. 

Four panels for top— %x9xl2 inches. 

Use mortise and tenon joints. 

Sketch ^*b'' shows a vertical cross sec- 
tion at ''Si,'' ''X'' and ^^y'' are the rails, 
''r'' and *^s'^ in the end view. The cross 
section shows how the panels are fitted into 
the rails. 

The total length and width of the panel 
pieces and the total length of the rails de- 
pend upon the size of the tenons used. 
Nevertheless, be careful to obtain the cor- 
rect measurements between them. 

With the exception of the corner posts, 
all pieces should be made of cedar. The 
measurements for every piece, omitting the 
tenons, are as follows, when completed: 

Four horizontal rails (front and rear) — 
%x2%x48 inches. 

Four vertical rails (front and rear) — 
%x2i/2xl0 inches. 



106 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Two vertical rails (front and rear) — 
%x3xl0 inches. 

Four panels (front and rear)— %xl0x20 
inches. 

Four comer posts— l%xl%xl6 inches. 

Bottom— %xl4V2x48 inches. 

Four end horizontal rails (two on each 
end)— %x2%xl4% inches. 

Four end vertical rails (two on each end) 
— %x3xl0 inches. 

Two end panels (one on each end)— %x 
8%xl0 inches. 

Two long rails for top— %x4x53 inches. 

Five short rails for top— %x4xll inches. 

Four panels for top— %x8xll inches. 

Order the following pieces for hall chest 
No. 2: 

Two front verticals— lx3V2x20i/4 inches. 

Two rear verticals— lx3%x40V2 inches. 

Two pieces (front and rear for frame- 
work of hox)— %x8%x35 inches. 

Two lower horizontal side rails— lx2%x 
13% inches. 



HALL CHESTS 107 

One bottom— % or thinner xl5%x32i/^ 
inches. 

Two side pieces— lxl2l^xl2% inches. 

Two brackets— Ix4%x6% inches. 

One upper back rail— %x3%x33%' 
inches. 

One lower back rail— %x4%x33% 
inches. 

Two slats— % (or thinner) x3%xl8% 
inches. 

Three slats— % (or thinner) x4y2xl8% 
inches. 

The seat : Two horizontal pieces doweled 
and glued together— %xl8x29% inches. 

Two end pieces, grooved and glued onto 
ends of horizontal pieces of seat— %x2%x 
18 inches. 

The following are the dimensions for all 
pieces when planed and squared up to their 
correct measurements. 

Two front verticals— 1x3x19% inches. 

Note.— The small dimension as a rule de- 
notes the thickness, the next in size the 



108 HOME FUENITUEE MAKING 

width, and the last the length. Order all 
lumber dressed on both sides. 

Two rear verticals— 1x3x40 inches. 

Two pieces for framework of box— %x8 
x32 inches inside. Add 1% inch for tenons 
on both ends. 

Two lower side rails— lxl%xl2 inches. 

Add 1% inches for tenons on both ends 
of rail. 

One bottom— %xl5%x32 inches. 

Two side pieces— lxll%xl2 inches. 

Two brackets— 1x4x6 inches. 

Square up brackets, 4x6 inches, before 
preceding with 5-inch curve. 

One upper back rail— %x3x32 inches, in- 
side. Add 1% inches for tenons on both 
ends. 

One lower back rail— %x3%x32 inches, 
inside. Add 1% inches for tenons. 

Two slats— % (or thinner) x3xl7 inches, 
inside. Add 1% inches for tenons. 

Three slats— % (or thinner) x4xl7 inch- 
es, inside. Add 1% inches for tenons. 



HALL CHESTS 109 

The whole thickness, width and length 
of seat when completed, are %xl7%x32 
inches. 

Detail sketch '*s" shows how the 2-inch 
end pieces are fitted onto the horizontal 
pieces of the seat. Do not omit the dowels 
or pins. A matched or tongue and groove 
joint can be used to support the bottom. 

The horizontal boards for the front and 
rear of the seat are alike and for its fasten- 
ing, a pinned mortise and tenon joint is 
used. It is one in which a pin is driven 
through holes bored through the mortised 
beam and through the tenon to keep them 
from drawing apart. Examine your win- 
dow sash and see if an example of such can 
not be found. 

**Lest we forget" the author has 3hown 
on this page by means of sketches, a sat- 
isfactory method used by many cabinet 
makers in *' squaring up" a board to its 
dimensions. 

An outline for *' squaring up" a board 



110 HOME FURNITUEE MAKING 

' i 

appeared in article II, under ''Hints to " 
Amateur Workers.'' 

'^Progress means action and action 
means life/' 



THREE STOOLS 
ARTICLE X 

An article that can readily find a place 
in almost any room and serve comfortably 
as a chair, is a stool. The stools shown in 
the working drawings are minus a back, 
cushioned and require but little space 
wherever placed. 

Stool No. 2 is serviceable as a foot-rest. 

The cushions in stools Nos. 1 and 3 are 
made after all parts have been assembled, 
glued and allowed to dry. The cushion for 
stool No. 1 is fitted snugly within the upper 
rails and one inch from the top, resting 
upon cleats %-iiich square, as shown in the 
drawing. The top leather of stool No. 3 
is stretched tightly over the rails and is 
held in place by means of bronze tacks. 
Purchase a hard leather for the above cush- 
ioned seats. 

Ill 



112 HOME FUBNITUEE MAKING 

Order the following pieces of lumber for 
stool No. 1: 

Four comer posts— l%xl%xl5% inches. 

Two upper side rails— Ix4%xl8% 
inches. 

Two upper end rails— lx4%xl4V2 inches. 

Two lower end rails— 1x2x14% inches. 

Two lower side rails— Ix2%x21 inches. 

Four wooden pins— % or % inch in di- 
ameter by 2 inches long. 

Two cleats— %x%xl8 inches. 

Two cleats— %x%xl2 inches. 

1. Plane up the corner posts first: l%x 
IVo inches ( square )xl5 inches. Do not omit 
14-inch chamfers on upper ends. 

2. Square up the upper side rails: Ix 
4x18% inches. The measurement between 
the tenons is 17 inches. 

3. Make mortises on comer posts cor- 
responding to the above tenons on upper 
rails. 

4. Square up the two upper end rails: 



THREE STOOLS 113 

1x4x14% inches over all. The measure- 
ment between the tenons is 13 inches. 

5. Make mortises on corner posts ta 
admit tenons of the two upper end rails. 

6. Square up the two lower end rails: 
1x11/2x14% inches over all. The measure- 
ment between the tenons is 13 inches. 

7. Make the mortises on comer posts to 
admit the tenons of the above rails. 

8. Square up the two lower side rails: 
1x2x20% inches over all. 

9. Make mortises on comer posts for 
tenons on above rails. The joints are the 
open mortise and tenon with pins. The 
tenon passes through the mortise. 

10. Scrape, clean and glue, assemble 
and clamp all parts in place until dry. 

11. Make four cleats and screw in place. 

12. Make cushion and fit in place upon 
cleats. 

Stool No. 2 requires the following pieces : 
One top— %x9%xl5% inches. 
Two legs— %x9x9 inches. 



114 



HOME FUENITUKE MAKING 




THREE STOOLS 



115 




Two rails— %x3%xl4y2 inclies. 
Four dowel pins— % or % inch in diam- 
eter by 21/2 inclies each. 



116 'HOME FUKNITURE MAKING 

The top wlien squared up is %x9xl5 
inches. 

The legs are %x8%x8% inches. 

Draw a center line after the legs have 
been planed up 8% inches square. Then 
proceed in laying out the design. 

Figure A shows another method for de- 
signing the legs. 

Square up the rails %x3xl4 inches. 

Make the openings on the upper ends 
of the legs to receive the rails. The same 
are % inch wide and 3 inches long. 

Next give to the rails their other pro- 
portions. 

Bore holes through edges of legs and 
faces of rails for the dowel pins. 

If access cannot be had to a band saw, re- 
move the design on the legs with a turn 
saw. 

The top of the stool can be fastened to 
the rails by means of cleats, blocks or iron 
angles. 

The height of stool No. 3 is that of a 



THREE STOOLS 117 

chair. The legs of this chair can be tap- 
ered and the position of the lower rails 
changed, if so desired. 

Order the following pieces for stool 
No. 3: 

Four corner posts— 2%x2%xl6% inches. 

Four top rails— Ix4%xl6% inches. 

Four lower rails— lxlxl6l^ inches. 

Four cleats— %x% or %x%xl5 inches. 

As the stool is square, all its correspond- 
ing elements are made alike. The corner 
posts when completed are 2^2x2% inches 
( square )xl6 inches. Make curves on upper 
corners and taper legs as shown in the 
drawing. 

Square up the top rails 1x4x16% inches. 
The measurment within the tenons is 15 
inches. 

Make the mortises on comer posts to re- 
ceive the tenons. 

The lower rails when planed up and 
squared are 1x1x16% inches over all. The 



118 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

measurement between the tenons is 15 
inches. 

Make the mortises for the tenons on 
lower rails. The cleats are % of an inch 
square by 15 inches. The same are screwed 
to the inner sides of the upper rails and 
1 inch from the top. 

Clean all parts well, glue and clamp un- 
til dry. Allow the clamps to remain in 
place about twelve hours. 

The cushions required for stools Nos. 1 
and 3 can be made with or without springs. 
The kind of springs generally used are 8 
inches. For the cushions above, especially 
in such cases as specified in No. 1, an open 
box is made of four pieces. The width of 
these should be about 2% inches. Across 
the bottom of the open box or frame are 
mortised and set in about three pieces of 
wood to form slats on which to set the 
springs. The tops of the springs should 
be tied or anchored with stout twine run- 
ning in both directions, and fastened to 



THREE STOOLS 119 

the inside of the pieces forming the open 
box. The springs must be tied securely so 
they cannot slip from their fastenings and 
come in contact with adjacent springs. 

For such furniture as shown on this page, 
the roan or pebbled leather has come into 
favor. In stool No. 1 the leather is drawn 
over the springs and tacked to the outside 
of the open frame. 

When the cushion has been completed, 
the whole is set upon the cleats which are 
placed 1 inch from the top rails. The lo- 
cation as to the height of the cleats, how- 
ever will depend upon the kind of cushions 
used or made. 

Five Hints to Amateur Woodworkers 

1. To chisel an opening in a board 
across the grain and to avoid the same 
from splitting out on the other side, place 
or clamp a board behind the opening. 

2. On concave cuts work the cutting 
tool from the outside towards the center of 



120 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

the curve. On convex cuts, work the cut- 
ting tool from the highest point or center 
in downward direction. 

3. Drive nails or brads at an angle— 
the same will hold more securely. 

4. On concave cuts use the beveled side 
of the chisel, also when the wood has a 
tendency to chip and break. 

5. The common planes used in bench 
work are a block plane to plane the end 
grain, a smooth-plane about 8 inches in 
length; a jack plane from 12 to 14 inches 
in length ; a fore-plane from 22 to 26 inches 
in length and a jointer from 28 to 30 inches 
in length. 

**Man only understands thoroughly that 
which he is able to produce.''— Froebel. 



UMBRELLA STANDS 
ARTICLE XI 

An article that will receive a hearty wel- 
come in every home is an umbrella stand, 
examples of which are shown in plate XI. 
This piece of furniture, besides being an 
appropriate receptacle for umbrellas, serves 
adequately well as a place for canes or 
walking sticks. 

Copper or brass pans to catch the drip- 
pings of an umbrella are to be provided for 
in each stand. These pans should be made 
to rest on strips as designated in the work- 
ing drawings. 

The pans can easily be made at home. 
Some of the following will, however, be 
necessary in perfecting a brass or copper 
drip pan. 1 hand vise, 1 small ball pein 
hammer, 1 prick punch, 1 jewelers' saw (4 
inches deep), 1 chasing hammer, 1 dozen 
extra blades, 1 round end mallet, 1 set (6) 
121 



122 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 

chasing tools, 1 6-iiicli flat file, 1 pair No. 
12 snips, 1 4-incli flat file, 1 4-incli round file^ 
1 sheet emery cloth. 

The above is a complete list of articles 
that are essential in general hammered 
metal work. 

Soft sheet copper can he had upon the 
market in sheets ahout 30x60 inches. Cop- 
per or brass is numbered according to thick- 
ness or gauge. 

Soft sheet bras3 comes in rolls about 12 
inches wide. 

Mortise and tenon joints are used in the 
making of the three umbrella stands shown 
on this page. 

Stand No. 1 requires the following 
pieces : 

4 corner posts— l%xl%x29% inches. 

4 top rails— %x3xl3% inches. 

4 rails— %x2%xl3% inches. 

4 bottom rails— %x3xl3% inches. 

Make the comer posts first: l%xl%x29 



TJMBEELLA STANDS 



123 




124 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

inches. The taper on the top is to folio- 
next. 

The top rails are % inch thick, 2yo inchc 
wide and 12 inches long (between tenons ; 
The total length of all rails, including th 
tenons, is 13% inches. 

The second are to be % inch thick, : 
inches wide and 12 inches long between th 
tenons. 

The bottom rails are to be % inch thick 
2% inches wide and 12 inches long betweei 
the tenons. 

Do not omit the mortises on the comei 
post for all tenons on the rails. 

Provide strips for drip pans. 

Umbrella stand No. 2 is divided intoi 
halves by cross rails. 

Order the following pieces for Stand 
No. 2. 

4 corner posts— l%xl%x29% inches. 

2 Tipper side rails— %x3y2x2iy2 inches. 

2 Tipper end rails— %x3%xl3y2 inches. 

2 lower side rails— %x3x21% inches. 



UMBRELLA STANDS 



125 



2 lower end rails— %x3xl3y2 inches. 
2 vertical end rails- %x2y2x2iy2 inch- 

>• 

1 center top rail-%x3y2xl3y2 inches. 

1 center bottom rail-%x3xl3y2 inches. 

The four corner posts when completed 
re iy2xiy2 inches square by 29 inches. 

Make the taper on the top ends. 

The two upper side rails when completed 
re % inch thick, 3 inches wide and 20 
Qches long— including tenons, 2iy2 inches. 

The bottom side rails when squared up 
re % inch thick, 2y2 inches wide and 20 
aches long— including tenons, 2iy2 inches. 

The top end rails are to be % inch thick, 

inches wide and 12 inches long— includ- 
ng tenons, 13y2 inches. 

The bottom end rails are to be % inch 
hick, 2y2 inches wide and 12 inches long— 
ncluding tenons, 13y2 inches. 

The two vertical end rails are to be % 
nch thick, 2 inches wide and 20 inches 
ong— including the tenons, 21% inches. 



126 HOME FUEIiriTURE MAKING 

The top center rail when squared up 
% inch thick, 3 inches wide and 12 incl 
long— including tenons, 13% inches. 

The bottom center rail is % inch thic 
2% inches wide and 12 inches long— i 
eluding tenons, 13% inches. 

Make the mortises for all tenons of rai 
on corner posts. 

Provide strips for two drip pans. 

Umbrella stand No. 3, like that of N 
1, has all four views alike. 

Order the following pieces for stan 
No. 3: 

4 corner posts— l%xl%x30% inches. 

4 top rails— 3/4x3x14% inches. 

4 lower rails— %x2%xl4% inches. 

4 bottom rails— %x3xl4% inches. 

12 slats-%x2%x20 inches. 

Note the following measurements for a] 
pieces in umbrella stand No. 3 when com 
pleted. 

4 comer posts— l%xl% inches (square 
by 30 inches long. Make top tapers. 



UMBRELLA STANDS 127 

4 top rails— % inch thick, 2% inches 
wide and 13 inches long— including tenons, 
14% inches. 

4 lower rails— % inch thick, 2 inches 
wide and 13 inches long— including tenons, 
14% inches. 

4 bottom rails— % inch thick, 2% inches 
wide and 13 inches long— including tenons, 
14% inches. 

12 slats— % inch thick, 2 inches wide and 
18% inches long— including tenons, 20 
inches long. 

Locate and make mortises on comer posts 
for tenons on all rails. The slats are also 
mortised onto rails. 

Five Hints to Amateur Woodworkers 

1. Do not neglect the use of a marking 
gauge. 

2. Draw lines on work requiring excel- 
lent results with a knife or similar tool. 

3. Chalk lines should not be used in 



128 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

furniture construction. Same can be ap- 
plied conveniently to larger structures as 
found in carpentry. 

4. Do not drive a screw into a board. 
Its holding qualities are not strengthened 
thereby. 

5. The simple cuts in woodwork are: 
straight edge cut, cross cut, diagonal cut, 
bevel cut, convex cut and concave cut. 

Special Note.— The author wishes to call 
attention to the illustrations used in con- 
nection with this series of drawings. To 
some readers the mechanical drawings may 
appear confusing and it is because of this 
fact that a brief explanation is herewith 
given. 

In ordinarily representing a perspective 
view of an object, the drawing is obtained 
by looking from some one fixed point, while 
a view represented by a mechanical draw- 
ing, as shown above, supposes the observ- 
er to be looking from an infinite number 
of points, and always in parallel lines. 



UMBRELLA STANDS 129 

The illustration of the sewing table in 
Plate rV, however, was a perspective draw- 
ing drawn by means of mechanical instru- 
ments and in accordance with mechanical 
principles. 



BENCHES 

ARTICLE XII 

The first bench, as shown on plate 12, is 
especially designed to serve as a piano 
bench. Bench No. 2 is of practical value 
when used as a hall or window seat. 

In the piano bench the seat acts as a cov- 
er on a box underneath which are two com- 
partments of ample size wherein sheet musio 
can be stored. Hence Bench No. 1 serves 
a double purpose, that of a piano bench and 
music cabinet inclusive. 

The style of hinges, fasteners, catches or 
hooks to be chosen is left to the fancy of 
the worker. The rails of the above bench 
are *'set or let into" the edges of the ends, 
so the outside of the rails and end boards 
will be flush. The rails may be put in place 
with glue and round head blued or brass 
screws. The kind of screws used depends 
upon the style of finish given to the grain. 
130 



BENCHES 131 

The stretcher has a tenon 2% inches 
wide and 1% inches long, cut on each end 
which fits into a mortised cut in each end 
piece. A mortise is cut into the tenon to 
admit a key. 

In the hall or window bench the joints 
on all its pieces are the mortise and tenon. 

As specified in the drawing of bench No. 
1, cleats should also be provided in bench 
No. 2. 

Bench No. 1 requires the following 
pieces: 

One seat— Ixl5%x36% inches. 
Two rails— %x4y2x33y2 inches. 
Two ends— 1x14x17% inches. 
One bottom— %xl2x31% inches. 
Two cleats— %x4%xl2 inches. 
One center piece— %x4xl2 inches. 
One stretcher— 1x51/2x361/2 inches. 
Two keys— %x%x4 inches. 

1. The seat when squared up will Be 
1x15x36 inches. 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

m 




BEITCHES 



133 




134 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

2. The two rails are to be %x4x33 
inches each. 

3. The two ends when planed to size 
measure Ixl3%xl7 inches. v 

4. The bottom board will measure. %x 
31x11,1/2 inches. 

5. Make the two cleats %x4x(a little 
less than) 11% inches. 

6. The centerboard is to measure %x 
3%xll% inches. 

7. The stretcher should be squared up 
to 1x5x36 inches. 

8. The keys are to be %x% inches at 
the top end, %x% inches at the lower end 
and 3% inches long. 

9. Make mortises on end pieces for 
tenons on stretcher as stated above. 

10. Make mortises on tenons of stretch- 
er for keys. 

11. The cleats are screwed onto the un- 
der side of the seat. 

12. Clean and sandpaper all parts well 
before assembling. 



BENCHES 135 

Bench No. 2 requires the following pieces : 

Four comer posts— iy2xiy2x28y2 inches. 

One seat— 1x131/2x361/2 inches. 

Two side rails— %x3x36 inches. 

Two end rails— %x4%xl3% inches. 

Two top end braces— %x2i/2xl3i/2 
inches. 

Two side braces— 1x1x361/2 inches. 

Two bottom end braces— 1x1x13% 
inches. 

Six slats— %x2%x6 inches. 

Note the following measurements for 
each piece of Bench No. 2 when squared 
up: 

1. Foiir comer posts— 1% x 1% x 28 
inches. 

2. One seat— 1x13x36 inches. 

3. Two side rails— %x2%x36i^ inches 
or more over all; 35% inches between 
tenons. 

4. Two end rails— %x4xl2% inches or 
more over all— 12 inches between tenons. 

5. Two top end braces— %x2xl2% 



136 HOME rURNITUEE MAKING 

inches or more over all— 12 inches between 
tenons. 

6. Two side braces— 1x1x36% inches, 
between tenons 35% inches. 

7. Two lower end braces— 1x1x12% 
inches or more over all— between tenons 
12 inches. 

8. The six slats are each to measure 
%x2x5% inches— between tenons 5 inches. 

Use mortise and tenon joints in each case. 
Do not omit the cleats for the seat. 
The seat is fastened on the underside by 
means of cleats to the four rails. 

HINTS TO AMATEURS 

The Knifo and Some Possibilities 
for its Use 

The terms * ' whittling ' ' and ' * knife work ' ' 
are expressions that stand for a system of 
manual training for children from nine to 
twelve years of age; a system that can be 
operated in the ordinary school-room or 



BENCHES 137 

workroom at home without a large outlay 
for extra room and equipment; a system in 
which the knife is the only cutting tool. 

In selecting the knife there are a num- 
ber of points to be considered. The quality 
of the steel should be of the best and the 
blade carefully tempered so that it will hold 
a keen cutting edge. If the temper is too 
hard, the edge will nick and break, and if 
too soft, the edge will turn over, giving 
a great deal of trouble and doing poor work. 
The construction of the knife should be 
good and the design such that it is well 
adapted to the work to be done and to the 
capacity of the user. There are a number 
of styles of knives which are used for this 
work. The ordinary two bladed pocket 
knife or jack-knife, the round handled knife 
with the fixed blade, the sloyd-pattem knife 
with a fixed blade. Of these three styles of 
knife, the sloyd-pattem, commonly known 
as the sloyd-knife, seems to be the best 
adapted to schoolroom or children's work 



138 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

in thin wood. Because of the thin edge on 
the pocket knife which makes it difficult to 
keep it in good order, the sloyd-knife has 
the advantage over the pocket knife. 

The second form of knife has a wide 
blade, ground from edge to back, making 
it very hard to whet properly. The sloyd- 
knife will not close up; the blade has a 
thick, strong back, and is ground from the 
edge to the center, insuring a strong cut- 
ting edge; the point of the blade is strong 
and centrally located. These knives are 
made in several sizes, but the most suit- 
able one, for young workers, is the size with 
a two and one-half inch blade. 

When the knife first comes from the 
maker, it is not in condition to do good 
whittling; it has what may be termed a 
commercial edge ; that is, the edge is ground 
quite blunt or bluif, so that it will not be 
easily damaged while in stock. The first 
thing before using the knife is to whet it to 
a thin keen edge. 



I 

BENCHES 139 

The proper way to whet a knife is to lay 
the blade on the whetstone and whet a 
straight bevel from the edge to the center 
of the blade. The very appearance of a 
knife so sharpened carries with it the idea 
of keeness and cut. In the sloyd-knif e, this 
gives a wide bevel and at the same time, on 
account of the thickness of the blade, in- 
sures a strong edge. In whittling with a 
knife whet in this way, the bevel forms a 
support for the blade and a shaving can be 
taken off while the blade is still in contact 
with the wood the whole width of the bevel, 
thus insuring a straight cut. When whet- 
ting a knife, use both right and left hands, 
always keeping the edge of the knife turned 
toward or away from you. Lay the blade 
flat on the stone and rub back and forth 
the full length of the latter, not in circles. 

A good oilstone is an absolute necessity. 
"Whet the knife on one side until you can 
feel, by running your finger over the oppo- 
site side, that the edge is beginning to turn 



140 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

or rough up, then whet the other side until 
the edge turns back. This rough edge is 
called a wire edge, and shows' that the edge 
is whetted down very thin. The wire edge 
must be removed by ^^ strapping" (strop- 
ping) or by cutting into a piece of waste 
wood that lies handy. For strapping, se- 
lect a piece of belt leather and glue it to a 
board. Coat the surface of the leather 
with flour emery and oil. Use just enough 
oil to make the emery into paste. Eub the 
knife the full length of the *^ strap," 
(strop) drawing it away from the edge 
and turning it over at each stroke. The 
wire edge will soon be gone and a keen 
cutting edge be obtained, with which the 
finest shavings can be removed. If good 
results are wanted, keep the knife in good 
order. 



MUSIC RACK AND CABINET 

AETICLE Xin 

The parts of the music rack No. 1 are 
all fastened by means of mortise and tenon 
joints. The detail sketch *^a" shows how 
the comers of the shelves are to be fitted 
into the corner posts. 

Order the following pieces at the mill 
for the music rack No. 1: 

Four corner posts— l%xl%x39% inches. 

Four shelves— %xl5%x25% inches. 

Five slats in rear— %xli/2x25 inches. 

Six slats, three in a side— %xiy2x25 
inches. 

One back rail— %x3x25y2 inches. 

Two side rails, top— %x3xl5y2 inches. 

One back rail, bottom- %x2y2x25y2' 
inches. 

Two side rails, bottom— %x2%xl5%' 
inches. 

141 



142 HOME FURNITUBE MAKING 

When squared up and finished, all parts 
measure as follows: 

Four comer posts— l%xl%x39 inches. 

Four shelves— %xl5x25 inches. 

(Note how shelves are to be fitted into 
comer posts from detail sketch **a"). 

Five slats in rear— y2xl%x25% inches 
or longer; between tenons, 24% inches. 

Six slats, three on a side— %xli/4x25 
inches or longer; between tenons, 24 V^ 
inches. 

One back rail, top— %x2 1/2x25% inches 
or longer; between tenons, 24 inches. 

Two side rails, top— %x2%xl5i/4 inches 
or longer; between tenons, 14 inches. 

One back rail, bottom— %x2x25i/4 
inches or longer; between tenons, 24 inches. 

Two side rails, bottom— %x2xl5%, inch- 
es or longer; between tenons, 14 inches. 

Do not omit the tenons and mortises in 
their respective places. 

Music Cabinet No. 2 has a door and ad- 
justable shelves. 



MUSIC RACK AND CABINET 143 

Shelves **U'' and *'V'' have tenons %' 
inch thick by 2 inches wide and pass 
through mortises of the same dimensions 
on the large side pieces. Pins, which go 
through the tenons, hold the above shelves 
in place. 

The music cabinet requires the follow- 
ing pieces: 
Two side pieces— Ixl6%x40% inches. 
Two shelves, U and V— 1x16x231/2 inches. 
One top rail, **a"— Ix4%x22 inches. 
One bottom rail— Ix2%x22 inches. 

The door: 

Two vertical pieces— Ix4%x30% inches. 
Two horizontal pieces— Ix4%xl3% 
inches. 
One panel— %xl3x23 inches. 

The inside: 

Four strips, '*s"— i/2xl%x30% inches. 
Five shelves— %xl4x20% inches. 
Five rests, **r''— %xli/2xl3% inches. 

The rear: 




144 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Two vertical pieces, ^'b^'— Ix2y2x30y^ 
inclies. 

w 

I 
^ M a 

One horizontal piece, *'c"— 1x21/2x21%' 
inclies. 



MUSIC RACK AND CABINET 



145 




S^SL//^0^ 



> f -ujoiQ-ui/i ^ n 




L 



i^^^ 



kS'-H 







15ctS 




146 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

One panel— %xl8x30% inches. 

The following are the dimensions for the 
above pieces when reduced to size : 

Two side pieces— 1x16x40 inches. 

Two shelves, ''u'' and *^v"-lxl5x23 
inches. 

One top rail, *^ a' ^—1x4x21% inches. 
^ One bottom rail— 1x2x21% inches. 

The door: 

Two vertical pieces— 1x4x30 inches. . 

Two horizontal pieces— 1x4x13 inches. 

One panel— %xl2%x22% inches. 

The inside: 

Four strips, ^^s^'— 1/2x1x30 inches. 

Five shelves— %xl3%x20 inches. 

Five rests, ''r^'- 1/2x1x121/2 inches. 

The rear: 

Two vertical pieces, ^'b"— 1x2x30 inches. 

One horizontal piece, **c"— 1x2x21% 
inches. 

One panel— %xl7x30 inches. 

Detail sketch S^ shows how the strips re- 
quired on the inside of the cabinet can be 



MUSIC RACK AND CABHsTET 147 

made from one board. The distance be- 
tween centers of the 1-inch holes is 5 inches. 

Detail sketch ^^d'' shows how the five 
shelves are to be cut o:n the ends. The same 
rest on r^ 

Gluing.— When ready for use, the glue 
should be hot and of the consistency of thin 
syrup. It must be applied with a brush, 
in a thin uniform coating, to both surfaces 
that are to be joined, and must be well 
brushed into the pores of the wood. Too 
much glue will prevent the pieces from 
coming together at the joint. The appli- 
cation should be made as quickly as possi- 
ble, because glue begins to cool and set as 
soon as it is taken from the pot; it will set 
less quickly if the pieces to be glued are 
warmed. After the pieces have been put 
together, they should be rubbed to squeeze 
out the surplus glue, and finally clamped in 
place and allowed to remain until dry— at 
least twelve hours. 

In gluing large surfaces, such as veneers 



148 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

which must be secured to their foundations^ 
a considerable amount of apparatus is re- 
quired. Before the glue is applied, a heat- 
ing box or chamber, which is maintained 
at a high temperature by coils of steam 
pipe, is used to heat the pieces to be united, 
and very heavy clamps are required to 
squeeze the superfluous glue from the joint. 
It is important to remember that while the 
film of glue uniting two pieces should al- 
ways be continuous, the pieces themselves 
should be brought as closely together as 
possible. 

When end grain is to be glued, it should 
first be sized; that is, coated with a thin 
glue, in order to fill the pores of the wood, 
and allowed to dry before the joint is made. 
Otherwise, the glue that is put into the joint 
is drawn off into the grain and becomes 
useless as a fastening. 

An example of good gluing is found in 
the common lead pencil, the wooden portion 
of which consists of two strips glued to- 



MUSIC RACK AND CABINET 149 

gether. The line of the joint can readily be 
traced upon the end of the pencil, bnt if the 
work is well done, it will be found that while 
the joint is a strong one, the amount of 
glue between the pieces is so small as to be 
scarcely visible. 

Liquid glues are supplied by the trade. 
They require no heating and are, therefore, 
always ready for use. 

-W. F. M. Goss. 

Work promotes health and wealth, with- 
holds from many a sin, strengthens against 
many a temptation, and gives consolation 
and peace of mind in the evil day. 



MISSION CHAIRS 

ARTICLE XIV 

An article of furniture of necessity in 
every household is a chair. In the making 
of the chairs shown herewith the best ma- 
terial that can be used is oak, but white 
pine may also be used with good results. 

In finishing, the wood should be stained 
the color preferred and finished with a wax 
preparation. Experience will readily show 
that a stain will penetrate wood to some 
depth and when given a semi-polish with 
some wax preparation, the finish will be 
found to be more serviceable than a high 
piano finish. A marred or scratched finish 
can be restored to its former condition by 
applying the proper wax preparation. 

For cushions and upholstering, Spanish 
leather will be found most satisfactory and 
to surpass any other material for a simi- 
lar use. Substitutes for the above are linen, 
150 



MISSION CHAIRS 151 

velonr, cotton velvet, arras cloth or panta- 
sote. The above materials can be pur- 
chased from large furniture dealers or at 
large department stores. Loose cushions 
may also be used to great advantage in so 
far that they allow each piece to be thor- 
oughly dusted and renovated. 

A false bottom is to be provided, as 
shown by the broken lines in the working 
drawing. The same should be held up by 
small strips, about seven-eighths inch 
square nailed around the inside of the three 
inch pieces. The working drawing shows 
the false bottom to be three-quarters inch 
in thickness, but it can, however, be made 
a little thinner and raised higher. 

A good layer of upholstering hair should 
be placed over the false bottom. The leather 
seat, or whatever material that may be 
used, is then to follow, stretched tightly and 
held in place by temporary tacks. Bronze, 
antique copper, dull finished brass or 
wrought iron upholstering nails are next 



152 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 



driven in about every inch, and the tempo- 
rary tacks withdrawn. 




Order the following pieces for chair 
No. 1: 
Two front legs— l%xl%xl9 inches. 



MISSION CHAIRS 



153 




154 HOME FUENITUPtE MAKING 

Two rear legs— I%x4x40y2 inches. 

Note— Four inches is to be ordered for 
the width to allow for the slight angles 
given to the rear legs. 

Four crosspieces (about seat)— %x3V2X 
15 y2 inches. 

Two crosspieces (front and rear)— %x 
2%xl5% inches. 

Two crosspieces (on either side)— Ygx 
21/2x151/0 inches. 

Two crosspieces (on rear legs)— %x2% 
xl5% inches. 

Three slats— 1/2x21/2x16 inches. 

Note the steps as follows in working up 
the above chair: 

1. Square the legs to size, the front legs 
are l%xl%xl8% inches; the rear legs 1% 
xl%x40 inches. Do not omit the angle of 
two inches. 

2. The four crosspieces about seat meas- 
ure y8x3xl5% inches over all; between 
tenons 14 inches. 

3. Two crosspieces on front and rear 



MISSION CHAIRS 155 

are to be %^2xl5% inches over all; between 
tenons 14 inches. 

4. The two crosspieces on either side, 
when completed, will measure %x2xl5% 
inches over all ; between tenons 14 inches. 

5. The crosspieces on the rear legs will 
be %x2xl5V2 inches over all— between ten- 
ons 14 inches. 

6. The three slats on the rear legs must 
each measure %x2xl6 inches over all— be- 
tween tenons 14% inches. 

Around the inside of the 3 inch pieces 
which support the seat, % inch square strips 
should be fastened for the seat board to 
rest on. The seat board is held securely in 
place by glue and screws ; the same will keep 
the chair rigid. Upholstering hair is then 
placed upon the seat and leather stretched 
as explained above. 

The pieces of both chairs are assembled 
with simple mortise and tenon joints. Do 
not omit the proper tenons and mortises on 
the various pieces. 



156 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Order the following pieces for chair 
No. 2: 

Two legs (front) —2x2x19 inches. 

Two legs (rear)— 2x4x40% inches. 

Four crosspieces under seat— %x2%x 
14% inches. 

Four crosspieces on sides— %x3xl4% 
inches. 

Two crosspieces on front and rear— %x 
4x14% inches. 

Three crosspieces on rear legs— %x3x 
14% inches. 

One seat— %xl7xl7 inches. 

See mechanical perspective and note 
how the seat is faced with leather. The 
seat can be made from strips about 4 inches 
wide and doweled together. 

Hints to Amateurs 

One of the principal tools of carpentry 
is the hammer. The heads of all hammers 
are generally made of steel. The face, that 
portion which comes in contact with the 
head of a nail when struck, is hardened so 



MISSION CHAIES ^ 157 

as not to be injured by repeated blows upon 
the nail. The body struck by the face of 
the hammer must be considerably softer, 
for should the case be the reverse, the ham- 
mer would show an impression. 

When hard substances are struck by a 
hammer precaution must be taken that the 
face of the latter is not badly scarred. 

That portion upon a hammer which en- 
ables the withdrawing of nails, is called the 
claw. 

Hammers are arranged in size according 
to their weight. The same vary in size 
from seven to twenty ounces. 

The kind of hammer usually employed by 
bench workers weighs from fourteen to six- 
teen ounces. 

** Manual training is the greatest thing 
that has come into our public schools. It 
is the one and only bridge over which the 
boy can walk into that work of activities 
he sees everywhere around him.''— Amelia 
Hyde Center,' in the School Century. 



TWO COUCHES 

ARTICLE XV 

As with all other pieces of furniture 
shown in this series of drawings, the hand- 
some couches on plate No. 15 have been so 
designed as to come within amateur ability. 
Simplicity and strength are the predomi- 
nant features in the structural makeup of 
each couch. 

The following stock list of materials, or- 
dered mill planed and sandpapered, will be 
sufficient to make up couch No. 1 as illus- 
trated: 

Two rails— Ix6%x81% inches. 

Two rails— lx6V2x31% inches. 

One rail (on end)— lx3%x31i/2 inches. 

One panel (on end)— %xllx31V2 inches. 

One piece (H)— %x3x31% inches. 

Two pieces (triangular)— %xl0%xl8 
inches. 

158 



TWO COUCHES 



159 



Thin strips on above triangular pieces 
enough for all lengths: 




Two strips— %x%x45 inches. 



160 



HOME rURNITUKE MAKING 



Two posts— 2x2x25 inches. 
Two posts— 2x2x14 inches. 




The cushions may be made with or with- 
out springs as desired. If made without 



TWO COUCHES 



161 




I f-*- fc/-*^. 




*P^ 




162 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

springs, about 18 slats, % inch thick, 2 
inches wide, and 31 inches long, must be pro- 
vided for in the material list. The same 
are to be placed on cleats fastened to the 
inside of each side rail. The two cleats are 
fastened with screws. The height of these 
cleats will depend upon the kind of cush- 
ions used. 

The cushions shown in the illustrations 
are upholstered with hair and stretched 
with leather. Note the arrangement of 
cleats and slats for cushions in working 
drawing for couch No. 2. The leather se- 
lected should be of a color that will harmon- 
ize with the wood finish which is applied 
to each piece of furniture. 

For additional information on uphol- 
stering and the making of leather seats or 
cushions refer to the preceding articles: 
Article V, the comer chair; article X, 
stools, and article XIV, chairs. Soft leather, 
hard leather, sheep skin, roan or pebbled 
leather, chase leather, genuine cowhide 



TWO COUCHES 163 

leather, linen velonr, cotton, velvet and can- 
vas are used in making cushions for chairs, 
couches, settles, davenports, etc. One long 
cushion and a short one for the head will 
be found equally satisfactory, instead of 
three as shown in the illustration. All rails 
are mortised into the posts for a depth of 
% inch or more. The vertical slats on the 
ends in No. 2, the panel, the headpiece (H) 
in No. 1 are also mortised. The material 
list has allowed for all tenons, but sufficient 
care must be taken to have all dimensions 
between tenons correct. Glue the joints to- 
gether. 

To the second piece of furniture, No. 2, 
may appropriately be ascribed the name 
couch bed. The same can be provided with 
a floss mattress and box spring. An em- 
broidered canvas (or other material) 
spread, and a pillow for the head, will make 
the article complete. 

Order the following pieces for coucli 
No. 2: 



164 HOME FUENITUKE MAKING 

Two rails (side)— 1x7^2x791/2 inches. 

Two rails (end)— Ix6%x33% inches. 

Two rails (end) —1x31/2x331/2 inches. 

Two rails (end, top)— 1x3x33% inches. 

Fourteen slats (on end)— %x2%x7i/2 
inches. 

Four posts— 2x2x22% inches. 

Two cleats for cushion slats— 1x1x79% 
inches. 

Seventeen slats for cushion— %x2i/2x33% 
inches. 

The letters *^s'' signify the slats on the 
ends. 

Hints to Amateurs 

Some of the common joints used in vari- 
ous forms of wood construction: 

1. A lapped and strapped joint. 

2. A butted and doweled joint. 

3. A fished joint. 

4. A scarf or spliced joint. 

5. A doweled butt joint (at right 
angles). 

6. A toenail joint. 



TWO COUCHES 165 

7. A drawbolt joint. 

8. A plain bntt joint. 

9. A glued and blocked joint. 

10. A hopper joint. 

11. A halved joint. 

12. A cross lap joint. 

13. A middle lap joint. 

14. An end lap joint. 

15. A dovetail halving or lap dovetail 
joint. 

16. A beveled halving joint. 

17. A notched joint. 

18. A checked joint. 

19. A cogged or corked or canlked joint. 

20. A ledge or rebate or rabbet joint. 

21. A dado or gained or grooved joint. 

22. A dovetail dado joint. 

23. The common mortise and tenon 
joint. 

24. The through mortise and tenon joint. 

25. The blind mortise and tenon joint. 
*'A well understood failure is of more 

value than a blindly achieved success." 



THREE SMOKERS' TABLES 

AETICLE XVI 

A smoker's table will be found a most 
convenient piece of furniture in any house- 
hold where smokers abide. In many homes, 
where the ash tray and its accessories are 
placed upon tables, the ownership of a 
smokers' table would eliminate the practice 
and save the table tops from being defaced 
by possible bums or scratches. 

In a smoker's den or niche, a man's pri- 
vate room or study, a table, as shown on 
plate 16, will be most welcome. 

The style of construction of the smokers' 
tables has purposely been so varied as to 
meet the peculiarities of taste which often 
arise in this connection. 

Skilful workers and those who can ma- 
nipulate a lathe, or those who are familiar 
with the hammered metal work will find 
great satisfaction and enjoyment in turning 
166 



167 

out a set sncli as generally accompanies a 
table as shown on this page. 

The legs or supports for table No. 1 are 
made of strips crossing some distance 
above the center at an angle. In joining 
the two pieces to form a leg, a cross lap 
joint is used. The joint is halved and both 
pieces project either way from the joint. 
It is necessary to use a bevel square in 
drawing and obtaining the different angles 
on the joints in question. 

Order the following pieces at the mill 
for table No. 1 : 

Two strips (on legs)— %x2x41% inches. 

Two strips (on legs)— %x2x35% inches. 

One top— %xl4x24% inches. 

Two side pieces (below top)— %x5i/2xl7 
inches. 

Two end pieces (below top)— %x5xl3 
inches. 

One bottom— %x8xl7 inches. 

One door— %x3%xl0y2 inches. 



168 



HOME FUENITUEE MAKING 





THREE SMOKERS TABLES 



169 









170 HOME FURNITUBE MAKING 

One piece (for pipe rings) —%xl%xl7 
inches. 

Note from working drawing and illustra- 
tion No. 1 how the table top and its com- 
partment underneath are fitted within the 
cross pieces or legs. The door is large 
enough to admit a cigar box. 

Table No. 2 requires the following pieces 
dressed on both sides : 

One top-%xl9y2xl9y2 inches. 

Four posts— li/2xl%x31 inches. 

Four rails— %x3xl6% inches. 

Four rails— %x2xl6i/2 inches. 

Use the mortise and tenon joint for the 
above rails. The top is fastened by means 
of cleats which are screwed on the inside of 
the top rails and underneath the top. 

A table, as unique as No. 1, is the one 
shown in drawing No. 3. The legs are made 
of four strips. The bottom consists of two 
pieces which have been cross lapped. The 
braces beneath the top are made with cross- 
lap joints. Sketch **A'' shows how the legs 



THREE smokers' TABLES 171 

are fitted into the ends of the upper braces. 
The joint here used is often called a slip, 
end or box or open mortise and tenon joint. 

Table No. 3 requires the following pieces : 

One top— %xl4%xl4% inches. 

Four pieces (for legs) — %x2x29% inches. 

Two pieces (lower braces)— %x2i/2x20% 
inches. 

Two pieces (upper braces)— %x2%x8% 
inches. 

As explained in preceding articles, in 
order to obtain a true angle on the wood- 
work, a full size drawing must be made from 
the desired angles and transferred by means 
of a bevel square. The list of common 
joints from 1 to 25 was given in Article XV. 
Others follow here : 

26. A wedge mortise and tenon joint. 

27. The fox tail tenon joint. 

28. The dovetail mortise and tenon joint. 

29. A pinned mortise and tenon joint. 

30. A keyed mortise and tenon joint. 



172 HOME FUENITURE MAKING 

31. A tusk tenon or shoulder tenon 
joint. 

32. The double mortise and tenon joint. 

33. A slip joint, end, open or box mor- 
tise and tenon joint. 

34. A haunched mortise and tenon joint. 

35. A housed mortise and tenon joint. 

36. A through single dovetail joint. 

37. The half lapped or half blind dove- 
tail joint. 

38. The mitered, secret or blind dovetail 
joint. 

39. A beveled point. 

40. A plain miter joint. 

41. A doweled miter joint. 

42. A spline miter joint. 

43. A ledge and miter or lapped miter 
joint. 

44. A miter and butt joint. 

45. A stretcher joint. 

46. A street joint. 

47. A plain brace joint. 

48. A housed brace joint. 



THREE smokers' TABLES 173 

49. An oblique mortise and tenon joint. 

50. The bridle joint. 

51. A bird's month joint. 

52. A plain or rubbed joint. 

53. A rebated, rabbeted or fillistered 
joint. 

54. A matched or tongue and groove 
joint. 

55. A beaded joint. 

56. A spline joint. 

57. A doweled joint. 

58. A long edge miter joint. 
Illustrations of some of the above joints 

are given in succeeding articles. 



THREE SCREENS 

AETICLE XVn. 

An article that is of practical value in 
any room of the home is a screen, three ex- 
amples of which are shown in drawings of 
Plate XVII. Thq arrangement of the work- 
ing drawings has been so made as to con- 
form with their structural lines, addition 
of parts and with the developed skill neces- 
sary in the making of the screens. 

Plain white oak or quartersawed oak are 
the best materials that can be chosen for the 
construction of the articles shown on this 
page. The same may be said of a great 
number of other pieces of furniture shown 
in this series of drawings and articles on 
home furniture making. 

The first screen is 66 inches in height and 
24 inches deep. The drawing of but one 
section, however, is shown. To be complete 
174 



THKEE SCREENS 175 

each screen must have three such sections 
as are designated in the drawings. 

Each section for No. 1 has two vertical 
pieces %x2%x66 inches; one top piece, %x 
2x19 inches (inside), or 20% inches overall. 
The overall dimension includes the tenons. 
The bottom piece is %x5xl9 inches (inside), 
or 20% inches overall. 

Screen No. 1 can be made pleasing if 
paneled in Japanese grass cloth, in some 
canvas, in denim or leather. For one sec- 
tion Screen No. 1 requires the following 
pieces from the mill: 

Two vertical pieces— %x3x66% inches. 

One top piece— %x2%x20% inches. 

One bottom piece— %x5V2x20% inches. 

The height of screen No. 2 is 68 inches 
and its width is 22 inches. Each section 
has two vertical pieces %x2%x68 inches, 
two upper horizontal pieces, %x2xl7% 
inches (inside), or 19 inches overall, one 
bottom piece, %x2i/4xl7% inches (inside), 
or 19 inches overall and seven slats on top, 



176 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

,%x2x8 inches (inside), or 9% inches over- 



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THREE SCREENS 



177 



all. Select from the above mentioned ma- 
terials the choice of your panel for No. 2. 
One section of screen No. 3 is 67 inches 
and 22 inches wide. The two outisde verti- 






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per horizontal pieces enclosing the panel 



178 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

are %x2xl8 inches (inside), 19% inches 
overall. The bottom horizontal piece is %x 
3x 18 inches (inside), 19% inches overall. 
Three inside pieces are %x3x41 inches. 
The thin panel pieces are %x2x41 inches. 
Order the following pieces in making screen 
No. 2. The list bears reference to one sec- 
tion only: 

Two vertical pieces— %x2%x68% inches. 

Two upper pieces— %x2%xl9 inches. 

One bottom piece— %x2%xl9 inches. 

Seven slats— %x2%x9% inches. 

Each section for screen No. 3 requires 
the following pieces: 

Two vertical pieces— %x2%x67% inches. 

Two upper pieces— %x2%xl9% inches. 

One bottom piece— %x3%xl9% inches. 

Three inside pieces— %x3%x41% inches. 

Four panel pieces— %x2%x41% inches. 

Note— The panel cloth or leather can be 
held in place around its border by means 
of strips about % inch wide and about % 
of an inch thick. Do not omit to specify 



THREE SCREENS 179 

enough material for strips in the mill order 
if the above method of fastening is ob- 
served. 

Under the heading of ** Hints to Ama- 
teurs" the author is giving in this and suc- 
ceeding articles, clear illustrations of com- 
mon joints that are met by woodworkers 
every day. Illustration 1 shows two types 
of a ledge, rebate or rabbet joint. Such 
joints are appropriate when applied to 
boxes. 

Illustration 2 is a typical example of a 
dado, gained or grooved joint. For ex- 
amples of such a joint one will have to look 
at the making of some boxes, the support- 
ing of the bottom of a drawer or that of 
shelves on ** uprights." 



TWO PORCH SWINGS 

ARTICLE XVm 

Spring and summer invite attention to 
the construction of various kinds of furni- 
ture for the lawn and porch. Winter, then, 
is the time to begin work on the above 
named articles to assure their completion 
when summer arrives. The lawn swings, 
as shown on this page, may be supported by- 
means of ropes or chains (galvanized) 
hanging from heavy hooks fastened at the 
ceiling. 

The swings will be found to be roomy and 
comfortable and to outwear any number of 
hammocks. That the porch swings can not 
turn over when swung can also be said of 
these pieces of furniture. Frequently 
swings of this nature are used with much 
satisfaction in play rooms. 

To his skillful craftsmen the author sug- 
gests the problem of devising some practi- 
180 



TWO PORCH SWINGS 181 

cal means of changing one of these swings 
into a portable lawn swing, if so desired. 
This will necessitate a stand which, in its 
construction, must be rigid and substantial 
and one that can with ease be moved from 
place to place on the lawn. 

The seat of a swing should hang about 
twenty inches from the floor or ground. 

For cushions roanskin, cowhide, chase 
leatTier or canvas are often used. The seat 
proper can be made of cane in place of the 
thin boards shown in the drawings. 

Use plain sawed white oak for either of 
the two swings. 

Order the following pieces mill planed 
and sand papered for swing No. 1 : 

Two pieces (on seat, c)— 1x2x66%' 
inches. 

Two pieces (on seat), 1x2x22 inches. 

Make side pieces on ends (A) from two 
pieces as follows: 

Two pieces— %x4V2x23% incHes. 

Two pieces— %xllxl3% inches. 



182 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 



The other pieces continued are: 
One piece (on back, D)— %x4l^x6I 
inches. 




Plate No. 18 

Two pieces (on back) — %x2%x61 inches. 
Two pieces (arm rests, B)— %x4%x21% 
inches. 



TWO POECH SWINGS 



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184 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

When ordering boards, whose dimensions 
are small, combine same into larger figures 
on length and width whenever possible. 
This method will save time to you and the 
workmen at the factory. 

For example, when ordering the lumber 
for the seat, each board of which is 21% 
inches long, take the length about three 
times for one piece. About two or three 
inches must be added to each to allow for 
waste. Continue this method of making 
out the mill order for the seat pieces imtil 
an account has been made for each one. 
The thickness of each piece for the seat 
should be % or % of an inch. 

Two pieces, E— %x8i/2xl0% inches. 

Two strips (for cleats)— %x%x57 inches. 

Two strips (for cleats)— 78x78x22 inches. 

Order the following pieces at the mill for 
swing No. 2 : 

Two pieces (on seat, C)— Ix2%x62% 
inches. 



TWO POKCH SWINGS 185 

Two pieces (on seat, K)— 1x21/2x231/2 
\ inches. 

Two pieces (on back, A and B)— lx3x 
' 51% inches. 

i Two pieces (on back, E)— 2%xl4i4x 
: 24% inches. 

I Nine slats (on back, S)— %x3%xl4% 
inches. 

1 Figure lengths on slats as explained 
above. 

Two pieces, D— lx2%xll inches. 

Two pieces (arm rest), F— %x4%x24 
inches. 

Enough material to give 16 pieces for 
: seat, each % of an inch thick and 23 inches 
long, G. 

Two cleats, H— %x%x52 inches. • 

I Conmion Joints 

Fig. 3 shows a cross lap joint. The same 
I is made by halving both pieces and allow- 
ing the same to project both ways 'from the 
1 joint. In making a halved joint half the 



186 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

thickness of each piece must notch out and 
the remaining portion of one just fits into 
the notch in the other, so that the upper and 
under surfaces of the pieces are flush. 

Fig. 4 shows a middle lap joint. The 
same is made similar to a cross lap joint 
except that the joint is at the end of both 
pieces. 

It is well always to look for examples 
of the above named joints about the home. 

**It is just where language fails that 
drawing is most effective in giving it a 
clear interpretation of ideas." 

-Prof. Nadler, Buda Pesth. 



TWO MORRIS CHAIRS 

ARTICLE XIX 

Two Morris chairs of the craftsman 
order in design are shown on this page. 
The height of the seat from the floor and its 
location can be changed according to taste. 
For example, the front and rear horizontal 
rails may, with satisfactory results be low- 
ered from its ascribed position or the 
framework for the cushion may be lifted 
to a higher level, etc. The seat, however, 
should not be shifted above its proper or 
normal height from the ground. 

The cushions can be made fixed, loose, 
box form, or with the aid of springs. The 
last named is known as a spring seat 
cushion. The materials best or most chosen 
for the seat and back cushions are cotton, 
velvet, canvas, velour, denim, burlap, chase 
leather, genuine leather, Spanish roan skin, 
or sheepskin. 

• 187 



188 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Art cushions made of leather retail from 
$16 to $20 a pair- and those of denim 
and bnrlap at from $6 to $9. Cheaper 
grades, of course, can be gotten much 
cheaper. Nevertheless, the cushions can 
be made at home at a much less expense. 
The cushions may be filled with hair or 
cotton felt. 

Loose spring seat cushions will be found 
to retain their shape under hard wear, ifi 
properly constructed. These cushions are 
provided with wood frames which slip just 
inside the frame of the chair. The seat can 
be removed whenever desired. The loose 
cushion on the back has no springs, but may 
be filled with hair, cotton, felt or Java floss. 

(See Articles V, X, XIV, and XV.) 
Morris chair No. 1 has notched pieces at 
the rear ends of the arms that allow the 
back to be adjusted to different angles. 

Morris chair No. 2, in order to incline the 
back, has a metal rod passing through an 



TWO MOERIS CHAIES 189 

bpen design cut in the sides of the rear 
legs. 

The author's skillful workers, who have 
acquired some dexterity in handling the 
sommon tools of carpentry, may find delight 
in changing some of the chairs shown in this 
series of furniture drawings into rockers. 
[f this change is to be made with the Morris 
chairs, the backs should be made ** fixed.'' 

The best rockers or rocking chairs are cut 
straight with the grain of the wood and 
then bent with steam pressure by bending 
machines. But our amateurs have no bend- 
ing machines and, therefore, they must de- 
vise some scheme of their own in meeting 
this problem. 

A wood or metal form, having the desired 
rocker shape, may be made, and the same^ 
together with the material "for the rocker, 
subjected to steam. The rocker piece should 
gradually be bent into shape by means of 
hand screws attached to the mold. There 
are still other methods used in bending 



190 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 



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TWO MOKRIS CHAIRS 



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192 HOME FUKNITUKE MAKING 

rockers. The above manner of bending a 
rocker is entirely impossible with the scant 
facilities on hand in the little workshops 
and the home. 

Rockers are often cut, but objection can 
be pointed out in this practice in so far that 
breaking often takes place when the rocker 
is cut on a curve that partly crosses the 
grain. 

The following pieces of stock, mill planed 
and sandpapered on four sides, are neces- 
sary in making Morris chair No. 1: 

Four posts— 2%x2%x25% inches. 

Two rails (front and back)— 1x6x23 
inches. 

Four side rails— Ix5%x24 inches. 

Six side slats— %x3%xl2 inches. 

Two arm pieces, %x6x38% inches. 

Nine (or less) slats (seat) %x2%x24 
inches. 

Two cleats— 1x1x23 inches. 

Two back stiles— 1x3x28% inches. 

Two back rails— Ix2%xl5 inches. 



TWO MOEKIS CHAIRS 193 

One back rail (bottom)— 1x3x15 incbes. 

Three back slats— %x2%xl8 inches. 

One back support— %x% or 1x1x23 
inches. 

Two support rests— lxl%x8V2 inches. 

Two dowels (bottom of back)— % inch 
diameter, 6 inches long. 

Tenon the upper ends of the posts. 

The projection above the arm rests is 
3-16 inch and slightly beveled or rounded. 
Sandpaper, just enough to take off the sharp 
comers, the arms, legs and rails. 

The rear legs on both Morris chairs are 
made shorter than the front legs. This is 
done so that the chairs may be properly 
inclined. To get the correct slant on the 
bottom ends of the legs, a ** straight edge" 
should be laid so that its edge touches the 
bottom of the front post or leg at its front 
surface, but keep it % inch or 1 inch, as the 
drawing may call for, above the bottom of 
the rear post *or leg. Mark with knife or 



194 HOME FURNITUEE MAKING 

pencil along the ** straight edge" across 
both posts. 

The slats on the back can either be '4et 
in'* the whole end or the mortise and tenon 
joint used. In the former case the mortises 
in the rails will be %x2 inches. 

Use plain or quarter sawed oak in the 
making of both Morris chairs. 

The stock necessary to make Morris 
chair No. 2, mill planed and sandpapered 
on four sides, is given in the following list: 

Two posts-2y2x2y2x24y2 inches. 

Two posts (rear)— 2y2x4x24% inches. 

Two side rails— Ix2%x26 inches. 

Two side rails— Ix6%x26 inches. 

Two rails (front and rear)— Ix6%x23 
inches. 

Six slats (side)— %x4%x6% inches. 

Two arm pieces— %x4%x35% inches. 

Nine slats (on seat)— I%x2%x26 inches. 

Two cleats— 1x1x23 inches. 

Two back stiles— 1x3x28% inches. 

Two back rails— Ix2%xl7 inches. 



TWO MOERIS CHAIRS 195 

Three back slats— i/2x2%x22% inches. 

One rod for back. 

The joints used in assembling rails and 
slats are mortise and tenon. 

The joints used in fitting the arm pieces 
onto the posts are filed by many wood- 
workers under the name of '^middle lap'* 
joint. Dowel pins are passed from the 
inner sides of the posts to insure holding 
of the arm pieces. 

The rear legs of chair No. 2 are 4 inches 
wide at the upper ends and 2% inches at 
the lower ends. Observe the construction 
of same in illustration and working draw- 
ing. 

Before applying glue to any of the pieces 
of the chairs, have all clamps ready and set 
for use. Allow about twelve hours for glue 
to dry. 

The joint shown in illustration 5 is that 
of a * through" mortise and tenon joint. 
The mortise is cut clear through one piece. 
The tenon is cut to a depth equal to or 



196 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

more than the thickness of the mortised 
piece. The figure shows the cheeks of the 
tenon cut on two sides. The cheeks of a 
tenon may be cut on two or four sides. 

Illustration 6 shows an example of the 
** blind ^' mortise and tenon joint. In such 
a joint the tenon does not extend clear 
through the mortised piece, as is the case 
of the ** through'' mortise and tenon joint. 
Figure 6 shows the cheeks of the tenon 
cut on two sides. The cheeks of the tenon 
may also be cut on two or four sides. 



LIBRARY TABLES 

ARTICLE XX 

The library tables, the working drawings 
for which are here given, are mission in 
style and will be found both well propor- 
tioned and of pleasing appearance. 

Order the stock from the mill and in so 
doing avoid the hard work of planing and 
sandpapering the table tops, stretchers, legs 
and panels. 

Select quarter sawed white oak for your 
table. 

Order the table top for No. 1 to size: 
I%x28x44 inches. In this case several 
pieces will be jointed and glued together. 
The top piece in its entireness is squared 
to thickness, width and length. Thus, we 
say, that when a board is to be treated or 
* * squared up " on four sides or * * surface ' ' on 
four sides, it is s-4-s. 

197 



198 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 

Order the following pieces for the rest of 
the table: 

One stretcher— 1x12 %x42 inches. 

Four legs— 21/2x21/2x291/2 inches. 

Two side rails— Ix3%x35 (or more) 
inches. 

Two end rails (upper)— Ix3%x22 (or 
more) inches. 

Two pieces (center, on end)— Ix3%x22 
(or more) inches. 

Two pieces (bottom, on end) —1x21/2x22 
(or more) inches. 

Four slats— %x4x9 inches. 

Four keys— % (or %)x%x3% inches. 

For table No. 2 order the stock as speci- 
fied above. 

One top (s-4-s)— I%x36x53 inches. 

One stretcher (or shelf)— I%x24i/2x49i/^' 
inches. 

Four legs— 3x3x301/2 inches. 

Two side rails— Ix5%x42 (or more) 
inches. 



LIBRARY TABLES 19^ 

Two end rails (upper)— Ix5%x26 (or 
more) inches. 

Two end rails (lower)— Ix4%x26 (or 
more) inches. 

Two slats— %x6%xl8 inches. 

Four slats— %x3xl8 inches. 

Four keys— %x%x3% inches. 

Figures A and B show methods of fas- 
tening a rail into a leg. Illustration A is 
that of a blind mortise and tenon joint; B 
is that of a haunched mortise and tenon 
joint. 

Trim up all the legs to the proper size and 
then carefully mark ofP the mortises for the 
rails. The tenons on all rails and cross 
pieces are to be made next. 

The table ends (the legs with all their 
rails, cross pieces and slats), should be 
glued up first and the glue allowed to 
harden, after which the tenons of the shelf 
may be inserted into their mortises and the 
side rails placed. 

Make the mortise for the keys to be placed 



200 



HOME FUENITUEE MAKING 




LIBRARY TABLES 



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202 HOME FUKNITURE MAKING 

in the middle of the tenons, 15-16 inch from 
the shoulder of the tenons. The cross piece 
through which the tenons pass is 1 inch 
thick. The 1-16 inch less in the mortise is 
to insure the keys ' pulling the shelf tightly 
against the side of the cross pieces. The 
tops can be fastened to the rails by means 
of wooden strips, wooden buttons or small 
iron angles. 

To each table may be added drawers if 
so desired. The making of the drawers 
will not be found particularly difficult, but 
it would be better for the beginner who has 
had but little experience in handling tools 
to omit these for the present, or else care- 
fully examine some good table and note how 
the drawers are constructed and held in 
place. 

The drawings specify that the slats be 
% inch, but the same may be a thicker ma- 
terial, as the taste or the opinion might be. 
The table tops may be faced with leather. 
This method is generally followed with 



LIBRARY TABLES 203 

more massive tables of which No. 2 is an 
example. The color of the leather chosen 
should blend with and emphasize the tone 
of the wood. 

Large, round headed brass nails are often 
used to fasten the strip that finishes the rim 
and add much to the color, value, and decor- 
ative quality of a library table. Do not 
attempt the finishing of any piece unless 
the same has been thoroughly scraped, 
sandpapered and cleaned. See articles III 
and IV. 

The illustration in figure 7 is that of a 
common mortise and tenon joint. The 
same is made by cutting two sides of the 
tenon beam. For the lower ends of stud- 
ding, or upright pieces, to prevent lateral 
motion, it is often applied with much sat- 
isfaction by carpenters in house building. 

Figure 8 is a good example of an end, 
open, box or slip mortise and tenon joint. 
Look to window screens and light frames 
for this joint. This same joint multiplied 



204 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

is found on a chalk box. Such a joint in 
the multiplied state is machine made and 
can not be attempted with a common sloyd 
knife as is tried by pupils in the fifth and 
sixth grades of some of the public schools. 
'*We are not sent into the world to do 
anything into which we can not put our 
hearts. ' ' 



BEDS 

AETICLE XXI 

Every one knows that the furnishing of 
a home would be incomplete without the 
bed. It is because of this fact that the 
pieces of furniture, as shown on this page, 
are expected to receive a hearty welcome 
in this series of drawings on furniture- 
making for amateurs. 

The foot end of bed No. 1 is 41 inches 
high and 42 inches wide. The head end is 
46 inches high and 42 inches wide. The 
two side rails or stretchers are 75 inches in 
length. 

For fastening the side stretchers on both 
beds, patent devices must be purchased at 
some hardware dealer. 

The foot end of bed No. 2 is 42 inches 
high and 48 inches wide, i. e., between posts. 
The head end is 48 inches high and 48 inch- 
es wide. The stretchers are 78 inches. 
205 



206 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

The drawings require that strips one- 
inch square running their whole length be 
screwed to the inner sides of the stretchers. 
Slats about three inches wide are to be 
placed upon these cleats or strips. Small 
blocks are nailed on either side of the slats. 

Bed No. 1 requires the following pieces 
mill planed and sandpapered. 

Foot End 

Two posts— 214x21/4x41% inches. 
One rail (top)— 1x3x43 V2 inches. 
One rail (bottom)— Ix6%x43% inches. 
Three vertical slats— %x6%xl9 inches. 
Four vertical slats— %x3i/2xl9 inches. 

Head End 

Two posts— 2%x2i4x46% inches. 
One rail (top)— 1x3x43^/2 inches. 
One rail (bottom)— Ix6y2x43y2 inches. 
Three vertical slats— %x6%x23% inches. 
Four vertical slats— %x3V2x23% inches. 



BEDS 



207 



Two side stretchers— Ix6%x76 inches. 
Two cleats— 1x1x75% inches. 




The number of slats needed upon whicH 
the spring is placed is left to the good 
judgment of the worker. The same should 



208 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 




be made about 3 inches wide. One or two 
long strips %x% inches should be ordered 
for the small blocks fastened on the cleats 



BEDS 



209 






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and the inner sides of the long stretchers. 
Order the following pieces for bed No. 2: 



210 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Foot End 

Two posts— 21/2x21/2x421/2 incHes. 

Two rails— Ix4%x49% inches. 

Two rails— 1x21/2x49% inches. 

One rail (bottom)— 1x61/2x49% inches. 

Three vertical slats— %x8i/2x9 inches. 

Four vertical slats— %x2%x9 inches. 

Head End 

Two posts— 2%x2%x48i/2 inches. 
Three rails- 1x41/2x49% inches. 
Two rails— lx2%x49i/2 inches. 
One rail— Ix6%x49% inches. 
Three vertical slats— %x8i/2x9 inches. 
Four vertical slats— %x2%x9 inches. 
Two side stretchers— 1x61/2x79 inches. 
Provide for two cleats, a number of slats 
for spring and strips for small blocks. 

Common Joints 
Illustration 9 is that of a plain miter 
joint in which the beveled edges or ends 
^but and are simply glued or nailed to- 



BEDS 211 

gether. For examples of this joint exam- 
ine picture frames. 

Illustration 10 is that of a plain or 
rubbed joint. Such a joint has the edges 
of two boards glued together tightly. 
Plain tables have these joints applied to 
the tops. 

How to Apply a Finish to Oak 
A satisfactory finish can be obtained by 
applying a coat of brown Flemish water 
stain partly diluted. When dry, sandpaper 
surface with No. 00 paper. Sandpaper 
with the grain. A coat of dark filler should 
then follow. 

When the filler has hardened, a thin 
coat of shellac is to be put on. When the 
latter has dried, the same should be sand- 
papered lightly and one or two coats of 
wax applied and polished. 

Directions for using filler and wax can 
be found upon the cans in which the ma- 
terials are purchased. The above methods 



212 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

if followed, will result in obtaining a beau- 
tiful dull gloss so much sought by finishers 
of modem furniture. 



DAVENPORTS 

AETICLE XXII 

From the beginning, in presenting this 
series of furniture drawings, the author has 
given close attention to creating only such 
designs wherein refinement of outline and 
harmony of details are conspicuously re- 
garded. A glance at the settles or daven- 
ports shown herewith will substantiate this 
fact. 

The following stock list of materials 
should be ordered mill planed and sand- 
papered for davenport No. 1 as illustrated. 
Oak is the most suitable wood for this piece 
of mission furniture. 

Four posts— l%xl%x32% inches. 

One rail (top)— Ix4%x71% inches. 

Two rails (front and rear)— 1x5x71% 
inches. 

Two end rails— lx4%x25V2 inches. 

Two end rails— Ix7y2x25% inches. 
213 



214 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Eight slats— 1/2x21/2x181/2 Indies. 
Seven slats— %x3%xl8y2 inches. 
Eight end slats— %xl%xl8% inches. 
Six end slats— %x3y2xl8i/2 inches. 
Two cleats— 1x1x70 inches. 

Provide for slats to be placed upon cleats 
if cushions are desired without springs. 
They should be about % inch thick and 2 
inches wide. 

All rails and slats are mortised into place 
for a depth of % inch or more. When join- 
ing the pieces, glue should be used. Nails 
(brads or finishing nails), can be driven 
into the posts intersecting the tenons of the 
rails on the inside. The same will not show 
and will help to make the davenport more 
solid. It is best, however, to drive the nails 
a short distance into the wood by means of 
a nail set or nail punch. 

The following pieces should be ordered 
as above for davenport No. 2 : 

Four posts— 21/2x21/2x31% inches. 



DAVENPORTS 



215 



Two rails, front and rear— Ix5%x83i/^ 
Indies. 
One rail— 1x81/2x83% inches. 




Plate No. 22 



One rail— 1x31/2x831/2 inches. 
Four end rails— 1x4x29% inches. 
Six slats— %x4%x22 inches. 



216 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 



Two cleats— 1x1x82 inches. 

Provide for slats for cushions as stated 




above. See articles 10, 14, 15 and 19 for 
aid in making and providing for the 
cushions. 



DAVEITPOKTS 



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218 HOME FUENITUEE MAKING 

niustration 11 is that of a spline joint. 
The same is made by plowing correspond- 
ing grooves in the edges of each board to 
be joined. A spline or slip feather is in- 
serted in each groove. 

Illustration 12 is an example of a pinned 
mortise and tenon joint. In such a joint 
a pin is driven through the mortised beam 
and through the tenon to keep them from 
drawing apart. The cheeks of the tenons 
may be cut on two or four sides. The joint 
is used on the end rails in davenport No. 2. 

Some Woods and Their Characteristics 
Yellow poplar, sometimes called tulip 
tree or whitewood, is found to be usually 
light, soft, stiff and of fine texture. The 
same is not strong. 

Black walnut is hard, heavy, strong and 
coarse grained. It is easily worked, but 
will check if not carefully seasoned. Choco- 
late brown is the color of this wood. 
Ash resembles oak, but is coarser, and 



DAVENPOKTS 219 

less attractive tlian oak. It is also easier 
to work than oak. 

Beeehwood has close grain, is hard, 
strong, heavy, works well and takes a good 
polish. 

White oak is hard and liable to check un- 
less carefully seasoned. The bark has a 
grayish white color. It is one of the most 
valuable woods in general use. 

Eed oak is coarser in texture than white 
oak and is often brittle. It is also more por- 
ous, less durable and more difficult to 
season. 

Maple wood is heavy, hard, strong, tough 
and of fine texture. The same is often 
wavy grained and takes a fine polish. 

Sugar maple, in which, blister, bird's 
eye and sometimes curly effects are found, 
is the hardest variety of maple known. 

The silver or white maple is softer than 
sugar maple, lighter in color and less in 
weight. 

White pine is soft, light, not strong, close, 



220 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

straight grained, easy to work and takes a 
good polish. 

Pines have long, smooth, straight and 
solid trunks. 

Hard pine, yellow pine or long leaved 
pine wood is heavy, tough, hard, strong, 
coarse grained and durable. 

Black spruce wood is light, soft and not 
strong, straight grained and satiny. The 
same contains considerable resin. 

White spruce wood has characteristics 
general to those of black spruce with the 
exception that its color is light. Cypress 
wood is light, soft, close, straight grained, 
not strong, resinous, and easily worked. It 
has a color between light and dark brown. 

Hemlock wood is light, soft, stiff, brittle, 
coarse grained and inclined to splinter. 
The same has a reddish gray color, shrinks 
and warps considerably, wears rough, but 
retains nails firmly. 



BOOKCASES 

ARTICLE XXIII 

The two bookcases shown on this page 
are comparatively easy to make. The 
shelves of bookcase No. 2 should be made 
adjustable, thus facilitating the shelving 
of books of different dimensions. 

Order the following pieces of white oak 
or quarter sawed oak, planed and sand- 
papered on both sides for bookcase No. 1: 

Two sides— %xl2%x48% inches. 

Two shelves— %xl2xl9% inches. 

One shelf (bottom) -%xl2y2xl9y2 inch- 
es. 

One shelf (top) — %xl4xl9i/2 inches. 

For door: 

Two pieces— %x2%x28% inches. 

Two pieces— %x2%xl6% inches. 

For rear: 

One piece (top)— %x6%xl9% inches. 

One piece (bottom)— %x4%xl9% inches. 
221 



222 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 



"Panel (made from several pieces)— %x 
191/2x36 inches. 




Bookcase No. 2 requires the following 
pieces from the mill: 
Two sides— %xl3%x53 inches. 



BOOKCASES 



223 



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224 HOME rURNITURE MAKING 

Two shelves (top and bottom)— %xl3x 
50% inches. 

Three shelves— %xl3x48% inches. 

One strip (bottom)— %x2i/^x49% inches. 

The doors: 

Four pieces— %x2%x45 inches. 

Four pieces— %x2%xl9% inches. 

Center piece— %x2%x45% inches. 

The rear: 

One piece (top)— %x5%x48% inches. 

One piece (bottom)— %x3%x49% inches. 

Panel, made from several pieces— %x 
48%x45 inches. 

The tenons of the top and bottom shelves 
of bookcase No. 2 project through the side 
pieces. 

Figure 13 is an illustration of a dove- 
tail dado joint. One side of the inserted 
piece is cut on an angle. Both sides can 
thus be cut if desired. The dovetailed 
piece must slide in place. The same can 
not be pulled out sidewise. 

In adjusting fixed shelves of a bookcase, 



BOOKCASES 225 

as required in No. 1, a dovetail dado joint 
will serve most satisfactorily. 

Figure 14 is that of a housed mortise and 
tenon joint. One end of one piece of lum- 
ber is *4et in'' or ** housed'' into another 
for a short distance. 

How Trees Are Classified 
Woodworkers divide timber into two 
kinds: The ** broad leaved" and the ** con- 
ifer" or '* needle leaved." Oak, ash, 
maple, birch, poplar, and chestnut come 
under the ** broad leaved" class, while the 
fir and cedar are '* needle leaved." 

In botany trees are divided into two gen- 
eral classes: Exogens and endogens. The 
same differ in the way the woody part 
is arranged in the cellular tissue of each 
stem. 

Endogenous means inside growing. The 
wood in endogenous stem, such as a com 
stalk, is all in separate threads or bundles 
of fibers running lengthwise, and scattered 



226 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

among the cellular tissue throughout the 
whole thickness of the stem. A cross sec- 
tion appears dotted on the cut end. Ex- 
amples of this class are found among the 
palmettos, yucca, asparagus shoots, and 
bamboos. 

The exogenous stems furnish the woods 
useful in construction and are the kind we 
are familiar with in ordinary wood. It is 
this class that the woodworker subdivides 
into ** broad leaved'' and ^^ needle leaved'' 
trees, or conifers. 

In exogenous stems each year a new 
layer of wood is formed on the outside of 
the trunk and branches, underneath the 
bark, and the age of the tree may usually 
be determined by counting the number of 
layers. The increase is all on the surface 
and buries the older wood deeper and deep- 
er in the trunk. Exogenous means outside 
growing. In the center of the tree there is 
always a small whitish part, called the 
**pith." The wood nearest the pith is con- 



BOOKCASES 227 

siderably harder and darker in color than 
that which is on the outside nearer the 
bark. This is called **heartwood." The 
other, which is the newest and freshest, is 
called the ' * sapwood. " It is at the circum- 
ference, just beneath the bark. 



WRITING DESKS 

ARTICLE XXIV 

Desk No. 1 has its horizontal pieces held 
in place by means of pegs or keys. The 
pieces of No. 2 are doweled. The dowel 
pins pass through the side pieces to their 
outer surfaces. No. 2 is provided with a 
drawer. 

Order the following pieces of oak for 
desk No. 1: 

Two sides— %xl2%x49% inches. 

One (top) shelf— %x8%x33 inches. 

One (second) shelf— %xllx33 inches. 

One (bottom) shelf— %xl2x33 inches. 

Six keys (in one strip) %x%x20 inches. 

Each key is %x%x3 inches. 

The front or writing board should be 
made from several pieces to assure strength 
and avoid warping. The same needs: 

Two vertical pieces— %x3%xl6% inches. 

Two horizontal pieces— %x3%x23 inches. 
228 



WKITING DESKS 229 

One vertical piece— %x3i/^xll inches. 

The other horizontal pieces should be 
about % inch thick, about 2% inches wide 
and about 10% inches long. The front 
board should be made similar in construc- 
tion to that of a drawing board. The rear 
of desk No. 1 requires one piece %x5x28% 
inches. One panel composed of several 
pieces, %x28%x33% inches. 

Order the following pieces at the mill 
for desk No. 2: 

Two posts— l%xl%x24 inches. 

Two posts— l%xl%x51% inches. 

The sides are made up of two pieces 14 
inches wide. 

Order two pieces %x5%x25 inches and 
the other two %x9y2xl7% inches. 

One (first) shelf- %x5y2x30y2 inches. 
One (second) shelf— %x5V2x30y2 inches. 
One (third) shelf— %xl4x30% inches. 
Two stretchers (on side connecting posts) 
%x2y2xl6y2 inches. 



230 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 




One board or stretcher— %x6V2x30M 
inches. 



WRITING DESKS 

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232 HOME FUKNITUEE MAKING 

Two pieces (between upper two shelves) 
—Y^xGxG inches. 

Two pieces (upon which drawer slides) — 
%x3%xl8 inches. 

The front or writing hoard: 

Two pieces— '%x3%xl5 inches. 

Four horizontal pieces— %x3%x24% 
inches. 

The rear has: 

One piece— %x9%x29% inches. 

One piece— %x5y2x29y2 inches. 

One panel— %x29% (wide)xl3 inches. 

The drawer (front)— %x4%x30i/2 inches. 

Sides— % (or Iess)x4%xl2 inches. 

Eear— %x3y2x30y2 inches. 

Bottom (soft wood)— %xl2%x30 inches. 

Examine some drawer abont the home 
and observe its construction. Trimmings, 
such as knobs, hinges and supports, must 
also be provided for in the making of both 
desks. Pigeon holes have not been shown 
in the drawings of either desk. The same 
may be added and arranged according to 



WKITING DESKS 233 

individual taste. Tlie material chosen 
should be % inch thick and soft wood. 

Figure 15 shows the construction of a 
keyed mortise and tenon joint. The ten- 
on of one piece protrudes through the mor- 
tise of the other piece far enough to re- 
ceive a removable peg or key. The key 
must be tapered in order to draw up tightly 
the mortised piece. 

Desk No. 1 has this joint applied to its 
shelves. Other examples can be found in 
this series of drawings on furniture mak- 
ing. 

Figure 16 is an illustration of a plain 
butt joint. The same is made by joining 
pieces edgewise or endwise without over- 
lapping any parts. Examples of such a joint 
can be found on simple frame boxes. 

The Grain of Wood 
The woodworker speaks of woods as fine 
grained, cross grained, coarse grained, or 
straight grained. 



234 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Wood is said to be fine grained wlien tlie 
annual rings are relatively narrow, and 
coarse grained when these rings are wide. 
It will be found that fine grained wood will 
generally take a high polish, while with 
coarse grained wood this is not always pos- 
sible. 

Wood is said to be straight grained when 
the fibers are straight and parallel to the 
direction of the trunk of the tree. If the 
fibers of wood are distorted or twisted so 
as to be spiral in form, and the growing 
follows up around the trunk of the tree, the 
wood is said to be cross grained. 



CHINA CLOSET AND BUFFET 

ARTICLE XXV 

Again, in presenting the two pieces of 
furniture shown in plate 25, the author has 
sought an artistic treatment of straight 
lines. The construction of this furniture 
as directed will no doubt give lasting satis- 
faction in any home. 

The china cabinet will require the fol- 
lowing pieces (plain white oak or quarter- 
sawed oak) planed and sandpapered, from 
the mill : 

Four posts— l%xl%x56% incheSo 

One top— %xl9V2x43 inches. 

The Door 

Two vertical pieces— %x3x46V2 inches. 
Two horizontal pieces— %x3x30V2 inches. 
Three mullion strips— %xl%x42% inch- 
es. 

• 235 



236 HOME FURNITUKE MAKING 

The short mullion strips should be or- 
dered in longer strips, thus: 

Three horizontal strips— %xl%x30 inch- 
es. 

One stretcher (bottom)— %x3i/^x35% 
inches. 

For Sides 

Four vertical pieces— %x3x46y2 inches. 

Four horizontal pieces— %x3xl0% inch- 
es. 

Order two pieces for mullion strips— one 
for each side. 

Two strips— %xl%x32 inches. 

Two stretchers (bottom, sides)— %x4% 
xl5% inches. 

The Rear 

Two vertical pieces— %x3x46% inches. 

One center piece— %x3V2x46% inches. 

Six pieces (horizontal)— %x3%xl4% 
inches. 

Eight panel pieces— %x9xl4 inches. 

One upper strip — %x3x35% inches. 

One lower strip— %x3x35% inches. 



CHINA CLOSET AND BUFFET 237 

One stretcher (bottom)— %x3%x35% 
inches. 

Three shelves— %xl5y2x35 inches. 

One bottom shelf— y8xl7x35 inches. 

The door frame and side frames should 
be provided with glass. All parts are as- 
sembled by means of mortise and tenon 
joints. 

For the buffet shown in drawing No. 2 
order the following material from the mill : 

Four posts— 2x2x43 inches. 

Four stretchers— %x2x53 inches. 

(These are tenoned on the ends, passed 
through the mortises in the posts and held 
in place with dowel pins.) 

Two shelves— %xl7%x49% inches. 

Two Doors 

Four vertical pieces— %x2%x23 inches. 

Four horizontal pieces— %x2V2xllV2 
inches. 

Two panels— %xllxl9 inches. 

One shelf (beneath drawer) — %xl8%xl9 
inches. 



238 



HOME FURNITURE MAKING 




Two brackets— % or less x4%x5% inelies. 
Two pieces, S— %xl8%x23 inches. 
Drawer: 



CHINA CLOSET AND BUFFET 



239 




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240 HOME FURNITURE MAKING 

Front- % or %x5y2xl8y2 inches. 

Sides— % or %x5y2xl8% inches. 

Bear board— %x5xl8% inches. 

Bottom— %xl7y2xl7y2 inches. 
The Sides 

Two pieces, T— %x2xl7% inches. 

Four pieces— %x3%xl7% inches. 

Two panel pieces— %xl6y2x21 inches. 
The Rear 

One top piece— %x8%x48% inches. 

Two horizontal pieces— %x3%x42% 
inches. 

Two vertical pieces— %x3%x23 inches. 

One centerpiece (vertical)— %x3%xl7y2 
inches. 

Two panel pieces— %x20xl7 inches. 

The lines of rear pieces are not shown in 
the front view, because in so doing the 
drawing would become confusing and too 
intricate for amateurs. The explanation 
for all pieces of the rear, as given above, 
ought to suffice. 

Also order one plate rail strip— %xl%x 



CHINA CLOSET AND BUFFET 241 

48^2 inches. About one-half inch has been 
allowed in all mill orders on every piece 
of lumber on width and length for waste 
in planing and sawing. 

Illustration 17 is a modification of a 
** halved'^ splice, but because of its struc- 
ture is somewhat more effective. Such a 
method of connecting timber is called a 
** beveled '' splice and the cuts are made 
on a bevel in such a manner that the parts 
fit accurately when placed together. 

Illustration 18 is an example of the sim- 
plest of splices. Amateurs should not mis- 
construe joints for splices. The difference 
lies therein that a ** splice" has the connec- 
tion between two pieces extending in the 
same direction, as shown in the drawings. 
It will also be noticeable that each piece 
connected is a continuation of the other. 

Any connection between two pieces which 
come together at an angle, as shown in fore- 
going articles, and which are therefore con- 
tinuous, is termed a joint. 



THE FURNITURE MAKER 

His name is written on no roll of war 

With stroke of steel and mighty crash 
of arms, 

His sturdy step awakens no alarms 
And at his shout no face is clouded o 'er 
With sudden terror or descending tears. 

He has his triumphs and his victories; 

But Peace and Progress, Praise and 
Plenty— these 
The victories he gathers from the years. 

His name is written on the blazing hearth. 
Around the household's cherished in- 

gleside. 
Within the first dear cottage of the 
bride 
And on the proudest mansion of the earth. 
His creed is Comfort and his god is Love. 
About our sweet domestic altars lurk 
The gentle spirits of his handiwork— 
These are the scenes he writes his name 
above. ' 

243 



244 THE FURNITUKE MAKER 

These are the scenes that make the monu- 
ment 
Of this, the gentle craftsman of the 

Home. 
And feet that wander far, and hearts 
that roam, 
Shall often come returning penitent 
To worship at old altars he has made— 
A mother's rocker or a father's chair— 
Finding no edifice afar as fair 
As this the simple product of his trade. 

Builder of altars in the home and heart, 
A labor near divinity is yours, 
Yours is the craftsmanship that most 
endures, 
For homes are builded by your honest art. 
Think not the service humble from your 
hand. 
But proudly, gratefully, your toil es- 
teem— 
For men no greater service do or dream 
Than building firesides in a happy land. 

—Douglas Malloch. 
(By courte^ of the Furniture Journal.) 



If a mail can write a better booky 
preach a better sermon, or make 
a better mousetrap than his neigh- 
bor, though he build his house in 
the woods, the world will make a 
beaten path to his door.— Ralph 
Waldo Emerson. 



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